In 2015 we had the sad, but not wholly unexpected news that The Criterion - one of London's oldest restaurants - had gone into administration. But the historic restaurant's fortunes took a turn for the better at the beginning of this year when it was taken over by the illustrious Milanese company Savini.
The restaurant is now open all day - serving everything from a full English to dishes of Parma ham for breakfast. There's a set lunch (2 courses £26) with dishes like Slow cooked roast pork with borretane onions in balsamic dressing and Chicken breast with rosemary potatoes and veal jus. And in the evenings, a more extensive a la carte menu includes dishes such as:
- Millefeuille of foie gras and candied lemon with pan brioche and Modena balsamic vinegar
- Braised cheek of veal with cream of Jerusalem artichoke and star anise, and Peruvian potato chips
- Risotto alla milanese
- Macaroni with sausage, Savoy cabbage and potatoes, creamed with three-milk robiola
- Tagliata with artichokes, aubergine, radicchio and veal jus
And there's even a deli counter now open, selling everything from balsamic vinegars, to pasta, truffles and coffees.
Savini at Criterion is now open at 224 Piccadilly, London W1J 9HP. Telephone 0207 930 1459. Opening hours are daily from 8am to midnight.