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Test Driving Boundary - a Shoreditch cafe gets a massive makeover

boundary restaurant review london shoreditchThis is now what the bar area looks like with plenty of bifold doors so you can enjoy the good weather

What do we need to know about Boundary?

Boundary has been around for a while, launched by Terence Conran back in 2009. It came in three main parts - the Boundary hotel, the very popular roof terrace and what used to be Albion Cafe on the ground floor (there was a basement restaurant too, but that's never managed to really work and has now become an events space). 

Now, with a new owner (the same people behind  The Coach in Clerkenwell) and a new chef, changes are afoot. Taking over the space from Albion cafe is Boundary restaurant and bar, in a space that has been completely remodelled.

What's changed?

For starters, there's no longer a grocery store at the entrance. And that separate entrance to the restaurant has also gone - now you enter through the Boundary building's main entrance. There's a large bar that leads through to a raised-up eating space. Add to that a nice terrace area and a good-sized private dining room and that's what now comprises this new brasserie space. If you've been before you'll know it's a corner site so it's got loads of natural light too.

boundary restaurant review london shoreditchThe raised-up dining area towards the back of the restaurant

What kind of food are we talking about?

They're billing it as "modern British fare with a European influence" (head chef Robin is Swedish). It's a blessedly straightforward menu - no fiddly small sharing-style dishes here. There's the option of a short bar snacks menu followed by starters, mains and desserts.

Here's what we had, to give you a flavour of what to expect:

boundary restaurant review london shoreditchA selection of bar snacks including a curried mince pork pie, merguez sausages, padron peppers and Maldon oysters. 

boundary restaurant review london shoreditchSteak tartare with a sourdough crisp and topped with an egg yolk (£12)

boundary restaurant review london shoreditchDevon diver scallops with anchovy & lemon butter (£16 for two).

boundary restaurant review london shoreditchWild garlic and nettle risotto with summer vegetables and pecorino (£18) - this looks to be a dish that changes regularly with whatever's in season.

boundary restaurant review london shoreditchHanger steak with skin-on fries and berneaise sauce (£19.50) - a very reasonable price for steak this perfectly cooked. We couldn't resist adding a side of wild garlic mayo too, to dip the chips in.

What's on the menu for vegetarians?

In addition to the risotto, you could opt for gazpacho to start or Norfolk asparagus or raw veg with honey glazed walnuts and whipped ricotta.

boundary restaurant review london shoreditchWe also rated this side of grilled hispi cabbage with citrus and juniper butter (£5.50)

Room for dessert?

There's a short list of four desserts and a cheese plate. Our knickerbocker glory was absolutely fine, but suffered by comparison to a recent great one at Upstairs at the George. But then we also had this banger...

boundary restaurant review london shoreditchPecan pie with Earl Grey ice cream (£8) - a really glorious pie, all fudgy and delicious with particularly good ice cream and a lovely bit of unbilled crumble.

What about drinks?

Most of the wine list is in the £30 - £40 territory with an almost-exclusively Miraval rose selection. Our pick of an organic Soave from the Pieropan estate (£52) was very, very nice indeed. It's worth noting that Boundary have a late licence for the bar  - it'll be opening until 1am before too long and that will be very handy if you're in the area. They'll also soon have one of our favourite things - a cocktail trolley. 

Overall thoughts

Anyone who remembers the Albion of old will be pleasantly surprised to see how different this new space is. We can easily see ourselves popping in here for a snack and late night drink - any new decent watering hole in Shoreditch is always a good thing. We were in on day one of service and staff are clearly eager to welcome in locals and visitors. Go - we think you'll enjoy it.

 

More about Boundary

Where is it? 2-4 Boundary Street, Shoreditch, London E2 7DD

How to book: Book online here.

Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @boundaryldn.

Hot Dinners dined as guests of Boundary. Prices are correct at the time of publication. 

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