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Test of time - heading back to Trivet, the approachable two Michelin star restaurant

trivet restaurant london bridge reviewThe light filled dining room with open kitchen at Trivet

What do we need to know about Trivet?

You may have been aware that, earlier this year, this London Bridge restaurant was raised to the rarified ranks of London's restaurants boasting two Michelin stars. There are just 13 of those in total, so it's a big deal. The pair behind it are Jonny Lake and Isa Bal - the former head chef and head sommelier at The Fat Duck.

Where is it?

You'll find it nestling in the shadow of the Shard on Snowsfields, just minutes from London Bridge station.

Where's a good place to meet for a drink first?

Happily, Trivet has its own standalone bar which makes the perfect spot to meet up. Even if you're not booked into the main restaurant you can come in here from Tuesday to Saturday to order from the same menu and on Mondays (when the main restaurant is closed) it becomes Labombe, a wine bar concept offering special wines by the glass and more casual dishes from Trivet's lunchtime menu.

And what exactly is on that menu?

We're glad you asked. Trivet is the only restaurant on the list of 13 two-Michelin-starred establishments which is only a-la-carte. There are no tasting menus here. We think this makes it the most accessible of the bunch as it's just as possible to pop in here for a dish and a glass of wine or - as we did - tear through the whole of the menu. Accessibility becomes even easier at lunchtimes when there's a special menu of lighter dishes and snacks.

If we were wanting to go for the main a la carte menu, what should we expect?

For our weekend lunch, we eschewed the extensive charcuterie and snack selection to dive straight into the main menu which is pleasingly arranged old-school style in the form of starters, mains and desserts. Here's what we had to give you an idea:

First from the starters section:

trivet restaurant london bridge review‘One has to have morels’ - Stuffed morels, wild garlic, Parmesan velouté and crispy chicken oyster (£36), making the most of the spring produce. 

trivet restaurant london bridge review‘Dante’s Pici’ - Pici pasta, langoustine and Oscietra caviar (£39) - a dish which has been on the menu in different guises over the years with the seafood and shellfish changing each time.

Next we hit up the mains...

trivet restaurant london bridge reviewPan-fried sea bass ‘Mélange des Gobies’ with razor clams, cockles and leek ragu (£55)

trivet restaurant london bridge reviewChicken with a vinegar sauce - Poached and roasted Devon White chicken breast and collard greens (£41)

We'd also like to make a special mention of the exemplary homemade French fries which came with a very moreish onion ketchup (£8).

Finally, it was on the desserts, the first of which we'd had on our original visit when Trivet first opened in 2019 and were keen to try again.

trivet restaurant london bridge review‘Hokkaido Potato’ - Baked potato mille-feuille, saké and white chocolate mousse, butter and saké gelato (£21) - even better than when we'd first had it. 

trivet restaurant london bridge review‘Turkish Breakfast’ - yoghurt and sesame cake, sour cherry and black olive caramel ripple (£18), a dish inspired by the key elements in, you guessed it, a Turkish breakfast.

Presumably, the wine list is amazing?

It really is. We loved their idea of putting the wine list in a chronological order by when countries first started making wine, an innovative concept that won the restaurant International Wine List of the Year and Special Jury Prize from the influential Star Wine List website in 2021. Standouts from the wines we enjoyed by the glass included an amazing sake from Masumi and a dry red from Areni in Armenia, made with one of the world's most ancient grape varieties.

Anything else we should know?

It's useful to note, particularly with the promise of better weather on the horizon, that Trivet has a very capacious and sunny south-facing terrace.

We also appreciated our take home gift of a butter tart to enjoy for breakfast the next day.

trivet restaurant london bridge reviewOur take home gift of a Canadian butter tart 

Overall thoughts:

Five years on from our first visit and two Michelin stars later, Trivet feels very comfortable in its space here. It's one of those happy places where food, drink and hospitality co-exist seamlessly and first-class food is served in a space that's extremely relaxed. If you think Michelin is all about starched tablecloths and hushed fine dining, make a booking here to be set right.

 

More about Trivet

Where is it? 36 Snowsfields, Bermondsey, London SE1 3S

Find out more: On their website or follow them on Instagram @trivetrestaurant.

Hot Dinners dined as guests of Trivet. Prices correct at time of publication. 

 

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