Try paying attention to what your dining companion is saying when that view is there distracting you.
What do we need to know about The Portrait Restaurant?
This is the rooftop restaurant at the, you guessed it, National Portrait Gallery. The restaurant's been here since the turn of the millennium when it was opened as part of the gallery's last big extension - the addition of the Ondaatje Wing. Back in the early days, restaurateur Richard Corrigan was brought in to work as a consultant on the shiny new restaurant on the gallery's top floor. Twenty-odd years later he's back, this time with his name on the door.
So it's got a view?
It's been quite a while since we were last up here to eat and we had honestly forgotten just what a jaw-dropping view this place has over central London. You're up at the same height as Nelson's column and Big Ben and if you time your dinner to align with sunset, you'll get a real treat as all the gold on the newly poshed-up clockface is picked out by the fading sun. Even jaded Londoners couldn't fail to be impressed.
And it really is quite the view...
How do we find it?
There are two ways into the restaurant. Probably the most straightforward is the separate entrance, which you'll find to the right of the gallery's main entrance, on Orange Street. That leads you straight into a bank of lifts to whisk you up to the fourth floor. But you can also access it from inside the gallery itself. The nearest tubes are Charing Cross and Leicester Square.
Where should we meet for a drink first?
This is an easy one - head down to the basement bar, Larry's. As you may recall from our recent Test Drive, the new cocktail bar on the gallery's lower ground floor serves a blinding martini among other things. If you'd rather meet elsewhere, our go-to wine bar in this part of town has long been Corks on Leicester Square.
So what's on the menu?
Richard and his head chef Simon Merrick (who previously headed up the kitchen at Daffodil Mulligan) have put together a menu that roams Britain and Ireland. It's a straightforward one too - starters, mains and desserts - if you're bored with the option of multiple small and large plates.
Here's what we had to give you a taster:
Carlingford oysters with a crispy topping of ginger, lime, coriander (£12)
Pig trotter, candied lemon, shallot, Australian truffle (£22) with wonderfully smoky bread.
Gazpacho, courgette cream, native lobster (£23) - every bit as delicious as that combination sounds written down.
After the starters, there is a brief foray into fresh pasta. There were two on offer when we visited. Fresh pasta with girolles, truffle and Pecorino and this...
House-made conchigliette, Dorset snails, rosemary (£24). Snails have been making something of a comeback on London restaurant menus of late and this is a great example. The pasta goes exceedingly well with the umami of the snails (with a bit of bacon thrown in there too). Highly recommended.
Then you're into the mains territory which consisted of seafood options like Halibut with Brown Crab Hollandaise or a veggie course of cauliflower, yeast, romesco and seeds. Out of the meatier options, we went for this:
Lamb chops, baba ganoush, grilled aubergine, yogurt (£32) - a lovely lick of smoke from both the baba and the sweetest lamb chops.
Now sides aren't usually something we'd spend too much time on, but this is a Richard Corrigan restaurant and if you don't order either the potato option, or something involving produce from the chef's kitchen garden in Ireland, then frankly you're doing this wrong.
Olive oil mash (£6) - a carby dish of delight.
Summer garden greens (£6) - fresh from the gardens at Corrigan's Virginia Lodge estate in Ireland.
Room for dessert?
You really should save space, because there's a compelling delicious range of options. We had the following which were great, but that sadly meant we didn't have room for the English cherries with goat's milk ice cream or the chocolate mousse with spiced madeleine.
Macaron with strawberries and mascarpone (£12) - a sugary combo of summer fruit and meringue.
Pot creme with blackcurrant jelly and shortbread (£10) - the fruit on this changes regularly and the shortbread is excellent.
What about the drink?
You absolutely must - if you're a martini fan - have the salt and vinegar martini (£14) which is very good. The wine list is a concise one that roams the world with sommelier Ludwig guiding you through. There's plenty under the £50 mark with a decent selection by the glass and carafe too and a few special bottles too of Barolo or Puligny Montrachet if you want to push the boat out.
Overall thoughts:
This city really is enjoying a renaissance of great restaurants in public places, from Lasdun at the National and Jose Pizarro at the Royal Academy to Corrigan taking over The Portrait. We can't think of a more perfect London day than perusing the new gallery in all its glory and then ending up here for a great meal to top it all off. Add to that a welcome from legendary Maitre D' Jon Spiteri, who's here to launch the restaurant on its way and you've got a pretty much perfect restaurant experience.
More about The Portrait Restaurant
Where is it? St Martin’s Pl, London WC2H 0HE
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @theportraitrestaurant.
Hot Dinners dined as guests of The Portrait Restaurant. Prices correct at time of publication.
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