What is it?
It's the second opening by Agnar Sverrisson and Xavier Rousset formerly of Texture - their first was on New Fetter Lane. Cunningly fitted into a triangular plot between Marylebone Lane and Jason Court - it's a triumph of great urban architecture and certainly one of the nicest looking wine bars in London right now.
Who's it aimed at?
It's a smart spot - perfect for a working lunch or for a quick catch up over a drink and a small plate and also well placed for exhausted shoppers as it's just off Oxford Street.
Where should I meet up with friends?
To be honest, this is where you should meet. But if you do want to meet somewhere close by first, try the Coachmakers further up Marylebone Lane or the Artesian bar at the Langham Hotel.
Where should I sit?
The window tables along both sides of the room are definitely the best - particularly if you're a group of three or more. Otherwise we'd opt for counter dining. We didn't fare so well and ended up on one of the elevated tables at the back with chairs designed so you need someone to push you in (like a toddler); there also weren't any bag hooks - something we feel they should install as soon as possible given the height of the tables.
Is bread included?
Yes, a decent basket of bread and unsalted butter comes pretty much immediately.
And what should we order?
As long as you've no objections on ethical grounds, the foie gras terrine with rhubarb chutney (£7.50) is an absolutely perfect starter. Just the right size to get you going - the tart, textured chutney goes perfectly with the refined terrine. We also had a mad-looking tomato and goats cheese tart which turned out to be a galette practically hidden by a forest of green salad on the top.
For mains, the key draw here is the coal-burning grill so one of us tried the 28 days aged US Grain fed beef ribeye (£16.75) which came served on a board with Bearnaise sauce on the side and a really well-dressed (if on the small side) green salad. We also tried a huge slab of pork belly with soft polenta which was a great comfort eat. Desserts were an exemplary chocolate tart with milk ice-cream which was frankly lovely and a cheese platter that despite coming from La Fromagerie, wasn't quite so exciting.
What about the wine?
As you can imagine, it would have been easy for Xavier to come up with a list the size of a brick, but thankfully he's kept it really simple choosing 15 reds and 15 whites on a regularly changing list. They don't serve the usual 175ml measure - but start with tasters of 75ml and then small glasses of 125ml, carafes and then bottles.
We let the sommelier choose all our wine, and then foolishly forgot to remind him to write it down for us, so we can only remember some of what we had - a lovely glass of Verdejo (£4.80) not to mention a really good Nebbiolo (£7.25). Suffice it to say it's a rich and interesting selection of wine and you really should go out of your comfort zone to try something new here.
Overall thoughts...
The best way to enjoy 28:50 would be to view it as a regular pitstop - somewhere to jump in, try a couple of interesting glasses of wine and some small dishes. It's a good new addition to the area and a very handy place indeed for weary shoppers.
28:50 Marylebone,15-17 Marylebone Lane, London W1U 2NE
Hot Dinners were invited to eat at 28:50. Prices were correct at time of writing.
