What can you tell us about the Devonshire Arms?
As an ex-Gordon Ramsay location ‘at the wrong end’ of a leafy Chiswick street, new gastropub The Devonshire Arms may have some cynics to convince.
Stocking the kitchen with a heavyweight in the form of David Philpot, previously of Le Caprice and Dean Street Townhouse, was the first step to impressing West Londoners – and we at Hot Dinners were lucky enough to peep inside as the pub threw open it’s doors and revealed a menu ambitious enough to stretch beyond gastropub grub.
Where is it?
Sitting in a leafy spot in Turnham Green, The Devonshire Arms benefits from the upmarket and serene Chiswick locale – but is a little hidden away from the main thoroughfare a few moment’s stroll down Devonshire Road. It’s the location that Mark Sargeant, the chef responsible for its’ original opening, said was at the ‘wrong end’ – and it does tread a fine line between pleasantly tucked away and missable – but word of mouth and plenty of local residents (including Colin Firth) may just be this pub’s golden ticket.
Who’s it suitable for?
Those expecting a rowdier gastropub experience like Wandsworth’s The Ship may be disappointed. The tone here is mellow, with a spacious dining room and only a few pub seats, while a spacious terrace has a more informal feel – perfect for sunny weekend brunches (should the English weather oblige!)
Where should I meet my fellow diners for a pre-dinner drink?
If you’re happy to squeeze around the small bar, the Devonshire Arms offer a decent selection of British ales well worth trying – and they promise to rotate their selection regularly. If you’re looking for a bit more space, the local area is studded with bars and pubs – including one just around the corner.
Where should we sit?
The Devonshire Arms’ tables are booking up quickly at the moment, but they hold a couple for walk-ins. The owners have been judicious with the space, and the dining room never feels crowded.
What would you recommend ordering?
David Philpot’s menu strides classic gastropub effortlessly and includes some imaginative extras. We asked for the ‘off the beaten path’ recommendations, and tried a delicious smoked eels, bacon and quails egg salad, which was presented simply and confidently. Elsewhere on the starter menu, comfort food like a generous bowl of courgette and parmesan soup, ticked all the boxes for a rustic and filling treat.
For mains, we stuck to the mainstream, with a Bavette steak and a roasted duck breast with pickled cherry Jus - both meats beautifully cooked. Dessert took a decidedly boozy turn with a Watermelon and mint pana cotta with Campari syrup and a Jack Daniels-infused pecan tart.
The Devonshire Arms team also promise to offer a selection of freshly prepared bar food – and due to the preview photos of quail scotch eggs, miniature fish and chips and truffled ham and cheese toasties, we’re already excited to try things out on the more casual side of the room.
The team will be concentrating on lunches over the weekend – so head elsewhere for your full English – where there’ll be traditional roasts as well as more inventive fare.
Is bread included?
Yes, and it’s a goodie – stuffed with sweet raisins and paired with creamy butter
What’s the cheapest wine I could get away with?
Wine is reasonably priced and offer s a range from bottles at £15.50 to £65 (red and white), with a wide selection by the glass
Overall thoughts?
The Devonshire Arms manages to skip along the fine line between fine dining and tried and tested with relative ease. There’s much to be said for classics done well, but given the flourishes we’ve already seen we’re excited to see more from the experimental end of the scale. It’s a fantastic summer for gastropubs with ambition (see Claude Bosi’s Fox and Grapes in Wimbledon), and we can’t wait to see more from David Philpot and team.
Find out more about the Devonshire Arms
Devonsire Arms, 126 Devonshire Road, Chiswick, London W4 2JJ
Prices are correct at time of writing. Hot Dinners was invited to eat at the Devonshire Arms.
