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Test Driving Sune - a perfect pairing of food and wine in Broadway Market

Looking into Sune - it's a really lovely looking restaurant, particularly when the sun's shining. Since we took this picture, they've added lots of hanging lights to those beams so it all looks even more impressive. 

What can you tell us about Sune?

This restaurant, just off the end of Broadway Market, comes from two seasoned hospitality professionals.

First off, there's sommelier Honey Spencer who's been responsible for some of the best wine lists you've seen across many of London's top restaurants and wine bars, including Sager and Wilde and Evelyn’s Table (and even Noma in Mexico). Next is her partner, Charlie Sims who, as well as working as restaurant manager at Noma, has also managed Maos and Brawn in London. As a duo, they definitely know what they're doing. 

They've brought in ex-Pidgin head chef Michael Robins to lead the kitchen here, with a menu that combines innovative cooking with a strong helping of comfort food style. 

And one more thing, before we move on - it's pronounced "Soon-er" (they named it after Honey's wine mentor Sune Rosforth). 

This is the building you're looking for.

Where is it?

It's just past the south end of Broadway Market. If you're coming from the market itself, you'll find it across the bridge on the right. 

Where should we go for a drink first?

As for the nearby area, there are plenty of decent pubs nearby, with probably the Cat and Mutton at the top of the list and Off Broadway well worth a look for a cocktail. 

That said, you'll definitely want to come to Sune with a view to having a proper go at their own drinks list (we'll get onto more of that in a bit). If there happens to be space while you're passing, you can pop in for drink and a snack, but it's primarily set up as a restaurant. 

roomLooking back at the bar, you can just about see the kitchen at the back. 

Where should we sit? 

It's a bright, airy room with tables well spaced, so anywhere should be decent, with the counter space looking pretty convivial too. The tables by the windows are the best if you can grab one (Broadway Market people-watching is very addictive). When the warmer weather hits, the terrace tables are going to be very popular as you're just far enough away from the main market so it's not too manic out there on weekends. 

There are also plans to create some outside space by the canal, so look out for that sometime around mid-2024. 

What's on the menu?

As mentioned, chef Michael Robins is in charge of the kitchen here. As well as Pidgin, he's had stints at Midland Grand Dining Room, Akoko and Roganic so there's a lot of interesting experience there. The menu focuses on something we've seen a fair bit of recently, putting seasonal local produce at the forefront of the menu. However, we'd say there's also a certain element of comfort eating in there too, resulting in a menu that reads nicely and is then delivered incredibly well. 

Here's what we had to give you a taste. 

roomCarlingford oysters, koji mignonette (£4 each)

roomGrilled flatbread, horseradish cream & miso cured trout roe (£8) - spectacular flatbread, this is the perfect dish to order immediately, while you look at the rest of the menu. 

 

roomDairy beef tartare & Rockefeller toastie (£17) - This is a notably ingenious take on a (very good) beef tartare. That toastie combines the elements of oysters Rockefeller inside - so a classic mornay/bechamel sauce mixed with cooked oyster and spinach. We also love that classic old-school toastie look. To eat, load the tartare on the toastie.

roomEgg, Chips & Anchovy (£12) - A great example of comfort food given a modern twist, served with aioli. This combo is exceptional (those were really great chips too). 

roomStrozzapreti, wild mushrooms & egg yolk (£20) - This pasta option features pickled mushrooms which add a fabulous piquancy to the dish. 

roomThere's also a lot of pleasure to be taken from mixing up the pasta to give it this intense yellow hue

roomGrilled pork chop, prawn and lemongrass sauce (£29). This has already become one of the most popular dishes on the menu and it's easy to see why. The well-seasoned and perfectly cooked pork chop is considerably elevated by an exceptionally good sauce. 

roomGrilled potatoes (£8) - They sound simple on the menu but you cannot miss this carby goodness. They're covered in a sauce which is a mix of brown butter, egg yolks and crème frâiche and finished with black pepper.

roomSprouting broccoli (£8) - Seems simple at first glance, but even this side dish has an added extra of a dressing which they make by infusing oil with baked kale and split with rosemary vinegar.

And after all that, dessert too?

Yes, you'll definitely need to make sure you save room (or have another couple of glasses of wine before tackling dessert). When you're ready, do not leave without ordering this:

roomAlmond financier & baked clementine (£10) - This is everything a great financier needs to be, slightly chewy with a notable crust all around the outside. 

And what about drink?

As we've mentioned a few times above, you'll want to come to Sune with a view to getting up close and personal with the wine list. During our visit, we were sat next to a table that had stuck to beers and we only just managed to stop ourselves leaning over and saying "You're doing it all wrong!"

Given Honey Spencer's background, making a good go of the wine on offer here is a must. The list is populated by wines from the network of producer friends that she's built up over the years, so you'll find some really interesting stuff on there. A two-pager, with an awful lot packed in there, it includes a great selection of magnums and a strong skin-contact list too (but it's not an all-natural list if that's not your thing). If you're feeling a little lost going through it, this is the ideal restaurant where we'd recommend you ask for guidance as you'll get some great recommendations. 

For such a good list, prices start at a very reasonable £29 (2022 Finca Venta de Don Quijote verdejo) but if you can head up to the £50 or £60 range, you'll have many more options, while the £188 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 'Les Genevrières', Frédéric Cossard from Bourgogne marks the high point of the list. 

Cocktails are available too, with their house martinis, daiquiris and negronis also at £12. And finally, we'd also recommend a look at their sake list. We were recommended a slightly warmed Kimoto Junmai 'Te To Te' which turned out to be a perfect accompaniment to the pork. 

cupVery taken with these sake cups. 

Overall thoughts

With Sune and nearby Cafe Cecilia, this part of Broadway Market now has two exceptionally good neighbourhood restaurants that are well worth crossing town for. Only a few days after opening, it's clear that Sune is something special. A beautiful room, welcoming and warm service all complement the exceptional food and drink. As one of our last restaurant visits of 2023, we couldn't have picked a better place to round off the year - highly recommended. 

 

More about Sune

Where is it? 129A Pritchard’s Road, London E2 9AP

How to book: Book online

Find out moreVisit their website or follow them on Instagram @restosune.

Hot Dinners dined as guests of Sune. Prices correct at time of publication.

 

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