The kitchen counter at Story Cellar
What do we need to know about Story Cellar?
This is the first new opening from chef Tom Sellers and his team since he launched the hugely successful Restaurant Story ten years ago. Now, with that two Michelin-starred restaurant undergoing a huge revamp, he's been able to focus on new projects including the upcoming Dovetale restaurant at I Hotel in Mayfair and this, a riff on Parisian rotisserie restaurants.
Where is it?
You'll find it at the entrance to Neal's Yard on Short's Gardens, making it a very handy pre or post-theatre stop for the Donmar nearby. The closest tube station is Covent Garden.
Where should we meet friends for a drink first?
There's always the Cross Keys in Endell Street or the top-end wine bar Compagnie des vins Surnaturels, but when the wine list at Story Cellar is so good you might as well come straight here. Not only is there a sizeable walk-in wine cellar downstairs but there are also plenty of top-end wines available using the Coravin section. You can even store your own collection of wine here should that be the kind of thing you're into.
Where's the best place to sit?
This is genuinely a hard question to answer - it would mostly depend on how many people you were here with. Downstairs is more of a spot for larger groups (but the air con is stronger down here, so that's a consideration). We were up at the counter which meant we got a lot of interaction with the chefs. And if you're dining solo, there's some great low counter seating along the front window that's perfect for people-watching.
The downstairs dining room, complete with a walk-in wine cellar.
So that's the wine. What about the food?
Pretty much the first thing you see when you come in are the rotisserie grills with their slowly turning chickens. But while the chicken is the star of the show, there's a lot more to Story Cellar than that. The small plates section is probably the largest part of the menu, but there's also room for shellfish, a few pasta dishes, and a decent offering of meats on the grill. Prices are on the high side, but this isn't your ordinary rotisserie restaurant.
Here's what we had to give you a flavour.
Terrine of the season 'pig' (£17) - an easy addition to any roundup of great terrines in London, the real selling point of this terrine was the perfect temperature it was served at (ie, not super cold straight from the fridge). That fruity Amora Savora mustard was perfect with it.
Snail bolognaise on toast with wild garlic butter (£18) - the perfect snail dish if you love the flavour but are maybe put off by winkling them directly out of their shells.
Hand-dived scallop (£14) - there are two iterations of this dish. The hot one with XO sauce comes highly recommended, but we were dining in a heatwave, so our thick slices of scallop interspersed with slices of cantaloupe melon were just the ticket.
Now, onto the chicken.
It comes in two sizes, half and whole, and the price (£32/£56) also includes some heavenly fries and a perfectly dressed green salad. The chickens in question are Baserri Aldabia chickens from France. They're brined for three hours and then poached in bacon stock and finished on the rotisserie before being served with roasting juice. All that hard work has delivered something truly great.
Half a rotisserie chicken with the crispiest skin and an intensely rich jus (£32 including salad and fries).
Dry-aged pork chop with brandy pickled dates (£35) - is there a better accompaniment to a pork chop than these dates? They set the bar VERY high.
Anything else to mention?
While we would strongly recommend ordering the chicken, there is the option of steak if you fancy. A rib-eye is available but the best option seems to be the steak frites with sauce Diane (£42). We'd also give out a special mention for the excellent "petit pois a la francoise" (with lots of bacon bits added, £11).
Room for dessert?
There are five desserts on offer, and every one of them sounds a winner. As it is, we'll have to wait to return to have a go at the soft serve and the brown sugar brulee but these should probably be your go-to:
Trifle - strawberries and cream (£14) - this is the summer iteration of their trifle dish (an earlier one featured rhubarb) and it's easily big enough for two to share.
Bread and butter pudding with tonka and orange custard (£11) - 100% the dessert to order if you're only ordering one. That custard is legendarily good.
You mentioned that the wine list is good?
It certainly is and if you're popping in here on your own to enjoy a dish and a glass, then the range of wines by the glass makes this a particularly good place to go. You could try a glass of Malbec for £10 or go crazy with a 2017 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru at £87 per glass.
The main wine list covers both old and new worlds and it is pretty punchy, there's not much south of £50 but if you're a wine buff with deepish pockets you'll have a blast with this. Our Grüner Veltliner Elektra (£84) from Anita and Hans Nittnaus was an absolute blinder.
Overall thoughts
Every once in a while a new spot comes along that so perfectly fits a gap you didn't know existed. Story Cellar is the perfect pop-in spot whether you want to enjoy a glass of wine and great charcuterie or go for more of a blow-out meal. We can 100% see ourselves popping back in to enjoy some time up at that window counter, watching the world go by, glass of Gruner in hand.
More about Story Cellar
Where is it? 17 Neal's Yard, Seven Dials, London WC2H 9DP.
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @story_cellar.
Hot Dinners dined as guests of Story Cellar. Prices correct at time of publication.
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