What can you tell me about the Table Cafe?
Finding a reliable neighbourhood restaurant is a challenging task in the capital. What makes The Table Cafe (a true neighbourhood gem) even more surprising, then, is its location. It can be found a stone’s throw from the Thames in Southwark, an area not usually known for its abundance of high quality or good value dining options.
What started as a cafe canteen project seven years ago has, over the years, been transformed by chef cum patron Shaun Alpine-Crabtree. Shaun’s unflinching dedication to the principles of sustainability and local sourcing is reflected in both the menu and wine lists. Presently, under the guidance of head chef Cinzia Ghignoni (ex Zucca and Ducksoup), the Table portrays an excellent example of modern Italian cuisine achieved by using the best British ingredients.
Where should we meet?
The Table Cafe is equidistant from London Bridge and Southwark underground stations, an area not short of historically significant public houses and wine bars. Approaching from London Bridge, Bedales Wine Bar and craft beer haven, The Rake, are comfortable stop offs. Similarly, the Cut Bar at the Young Vic and Anchor and Hope in Southwark are reasonably priced establishments with a well-chosen selection of wines and beers.
Where should I sit?
As expected of a restaurant situated on the ground floor of an architecture practice, the space is a paean to modern, well considered design. The open kitchen overlooks rows of broad tables, arranged in a manner which compliments a convivial and communal atmosphere. Floor to ceiling windows fill the space with natural light, meaning there really isn't a ‘bad’ seat in the house. This is also perfect for creating a cosy scene when the weather is inclement.
What should I order?
Shaun and Cinzia's obsession with sourcing and seasonality mean that the menu, divided into a series of large and small sharing plates, is an ever evolving project. The meat is free range, the seafood sourced from 100% MSC certified suppliers and a majority of the vegetables grown in an allotment down the road in Bermondsey.
Try the N'duja toast with roast Borretane onions (£6.50), followed up by a hearty serving of the 'Guazzetto', a stewy prawn and crab dish bound with a thick tomato sauce and fregola pasta (£7.50). Salsify, cream, parmesan and speck was also well received, and perfectly designed to match a number of the aromatic white wines from the eclectic selection available by the glass. Slabs of fluffy focaccia, baked daily, are also recommended to soak up all these delicious juices and sauces.
Moving onto the large plates, the rose veal ossobuco seated in a generous helping of risotto Milanese (£17.00) and grilled octopus, anchovy and caperberries (£17.50) were the only two we could manage. If we had room we would've also gone for the grilled mackerel served whole with burnt lemon (£15.00).
Desserts should definitely not be missed, a scoop of elderflower sorbet (£1.50) and the freshly baked almond and pear tart with creme fraiche (£5.50) were enjoyed with a glass of zippy dessert wine from the south west of France.
What should we drink?
Evolving in step with the menu is the wine list. Developed by wine writer Matt Walls, it features a diverse selection of both new world and old world wines, all available by the glass, designed to match Cinzia's dishes. Wines have been selected from smaller estates, most of which follow the principles of organic and biodynamic wine making. The Shaw & Smith 'M3' Chardonnay (£8.30) was a perfect foil for the creamy salsify small plate whilst the Reverdito 'Simane' Langhe Nebbiolo (£5.00) was the perfect answer to the ossobuco. For those who prefer spirits the drinks list now features a range of aperitif and regular cocktails.
Overall thoughts?
Throughout its tenure, the Table has gathered many fans. Workers from the Blue Fin and RBS buildings opposite hold it as a firm lunchtime favourite and at the weekend, it's one of the capital’s hottest brunch spots.
With an enviable list of suppliers, a strong chef and impressive wine list, the Table Cafe has set itself a strong foundation and is a bold example of how sustainable, well-sourced produce can be showcased in an honest and straightforward way.
The Table - Southwark - 83 Southwark Street, SE1 0HX
Hot Dinners was invited to the Table Cafe. Prices were correct at time of writing.
Follow Louis Fernando on twitter at @tuckandvine and on his blog Tuck & Vine.
