This is the main Savoy Grill room - note that many of the tables are mini booths for two.
So - The Savoy Grill, why now?
There are a few reasons, really. First, The Savoy recently celebrated its 135th anniversary which reminded us that we hadn't revisited The Savoy Grill since its big refurbishment last year. Also, alongside his signature restaurant at Royal Hospital Road, this is one of the jewels in the crown for Gordon Ramsay. With him undertaking a lot at the opening of 22 Bishopsgate, we thought this would be a good test of what his restaurant group is up to these days.
Remind us of the history.
This will be a very potted version, so bear with us (pauses for a brief look at Wikipedia). The grill room did indeed launch with the opening of the hotel back in 1889 but it has changed a great deal since its first incarnation, when it was more like a gentlemen’s club. Skipping forward very quickly to the modern age, it's best known for its time under Gordon Ramsay, who took it over back in 2003. Marcus Wareing was the first head chef of that era and remains one of its most celebrated. But 135 years on the Grill is still the most successful restaurant in the hotel.
Right now, the kitchen is led by Arnaud Stevens, Executive Head Chef, who's had a long history at great London restaurants including Pierre Koffmann's La Tante Clare and Richard Corrigan's Lindsay House as well as a long career working with Searcy's.
We think we can get away with the word "iconic" to describe this entrance.
Where should we go for a drink first?
As one of London's top-level hotels, there are some very well-known bars within the hotel. The American Bar is still one of the must-visit bars in London, while further into the hotel, The Beaufort Bar is also worth a look. But there's a third bar that's well worth seeking out that is part of another Gordon Ramsay space in the hotel, Restaurant 1890. The entrance to this is right next to the American Bar and it's a good bet if you're after a slightly more intimate space. They do extremely good cocktails too.
The Queen of Divas negroni (KI NO BI Kyoto dry gin, Antica formula, Campari, creme de peche infused with strawberry, bourbon noir infused Madagascan vanilla £24) - one of the most complex negronis, we've ever had and that hint of vanilla though it worked really well.
That said, if you want to go in another direction altogether, we've often been fond of a pint in the nearby Coal Hole pub on the Strand.
So, back to The Savoy Grill, where should we sit?
After all these years, it was interesting to see just how incredibly busy this large restaurant was on a Tuesday evening - they're doing very well here. So with that in mind, you'll sit wherever they put you. And while there isn't a great deal of daylight in this room, this isn't a bad thing. It's also notable that, with the exception of a few much larger central tables, much of the restaurant features booth seating for two or four people - so pretty much every seating option is decent.
And what's on the menu?
It is a grill room, but definitely not in the shape of more modern grills. This takes a lot of influence from its history of French cooking and therefore has a little more in common with The Ritz, particularly in some of the table service, than something like Hawksmoor.
As far as what to choose, there's a "Taste of Savoy" menu which takes you through some of their hits (£110), but we went a la carte, so here's a taste of what's on offer:
Arnold Bennett souffle with smoked haddock and Montgomery cheddar sauce (£23) - a signature dish of the Grill.
Duck liver terrine, prune, tamarind, pistachio, toasted brioche (£28) - a very good terrine, with the prunes a particularly good addition.
Poached turbot Veronique, verjus, dulse, grapes (£54) - it looks great, but this was the only off note of the night. To our minds there's a reason this is normally made with sole - it's a better fit for the style of dish.
Beef Wellington, confit portobello mushroom, truffle, red wine jus (£65) - It's one of Ramsay's most famous dishes and this is the place where you'll get the very best version.
And should we hold something back for dessert?
In a location like this, absolutely. If you like a little table theatre as we do, this is an absolute must:
Who doesn't love a bit of flambeeing tableside?
Grand Mariner flambeed crepes, Del Monte pineapple, Madacascan vanilla ice cream (£24) - a more tropical take on the traditional Crepes Suzette.
Xoco Mayan red chocolate souffle with pistachio ice cream (£19) - an absolutely top tier souffle, delivered to the table immediately after all the flambeeing above is finished.
And you really should finish with a glass of port from this enormous bottle of 10-year-old Sandeman.
Anything else to mention?
It's a grill restaurant, so steaks (rib eye, fillet and cote de boeuf) are available, as well as a treacle and ale-cured pork chop (£48)
If some of those prices are a little too eye-watering for you, the set lunch is well worth a look. At the time of writing, that's £55 for two courses and £62 for three. It's on the higher end of set lunch deals in London, but there's a lot of choice on that menu, and you can add on the Wellington for an extra £25.
Overall thoughts
It's been well over a decade since we were last in the Savoy Grill, so we were quite keen to see how it operated these days and it's holding up very well indeed. One thing's for sure, it's doing storming business and packing people in, 135 years on from its opening. It's not the cheapest night out in London, for sure, but if you want to be properly looked after and love a bit of table theatre, and perhaps don't want to go as full-on as The Ritz, this is well worth a look.
More about The Savoy Grill
Where is it? 100 Strand, London WC2R 0EZ
How to book: Book online or call 0207 592 1600
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @savoygrillgordonramsay
Hot Dinners dined as guests of The Savoy Grill. Prices correct at time of publication.
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