What can you tell us about Bonnie and Wild?
If you’ve ever seen a group of market tradesman in kilts hawking venison and duck on Saturdays at Broadway Market, you’ve already had a glimpse at the team behind this weekend-only pop-up restaurant in North London.
Based on a collaboration between Bonnie Gull Ltd – a seafood specialist caterers – and Wild Game Co., who specialise in seasonal game from the Highlands – Bonnie and Wild sets up shop every Friday and Saturday night at a traditional M. Manzes Pie & Mash hall at Chapel Market, Angel. Dating back to 1905, this venue is half of the charm – think tiled walls, classic wooden booths and a healthy dose of vintage charm.
Luckily for us, the night also featured a three-piece rockabilly band – the perfect moodsetter. Ask when you book ahead, as the band are planning to make regular appearances.
Who's it aimed at?
Bonnie & Wild are aiming to showcase their seasonal produce in an atmospheric setting – and it seems to be hitting the spot with groups of North Londoners looking for a weekend night escape from the teeming hordes on Islington’s Upper Street.
The team may have just stumbled upon the perfect formula for couples on a date – a tucked away, intimate locale for those in the know but still wallet-friendly enough for newer relationships.
So, where should I meet up with friends?
Bonnie & Wild take up residence along a quiet market street with a few local pubs nearby – although we’d advise avoiding the weekend Islington crowds. For a special treat a few minutes walk away check out artisan cocktail bar 69 Colebrooke Row or their sister pub, The Charles Lamb.
And where should I sit?
Pick a spot with a few of the band if you’re lucky enough to be there while they’re playing – otherwise, all the booths are cosy and candlelit.
Onto the food. Is bread included?
Yes – it's simple, but appreciated.
And what should we order?
Bonnie & Wild offer a choice of three for starter and main, with two desserts – all for the extremely reasonable price of £29. As you’d expect for the brainchild of two catering companies, the emphasis is on the produce. For starters we chose the pan-fried queen scallops – intriguingly tiny, served in shell with hazelnut and chive butter, and a tender bbq’d wild pigeon served with pancetta.
From the wooden booths to the no-frills menu, this isn’t a place that offers anything too delicate. Our pan-fried breast and confit leg of wild pheasant won points for being plump and demonstrably fresh (as we carefully picked out buckshot), but was tough work to get through and could have benefited from a more gentle preparation (as well as less time in the pan). The star of the show was a pan-fried coley fillet – a well-cooked, tender white fish served with a mussel, basil and tomato stew. Simple and hearty without being fussy, it showcased Bonnie Gull’s wares perfectly.
Dessert was on offer, but skimpy – the pecan tart with crème fraiche didn’t quite satisfy our sweet tooth, so we turned to the selection of British cheeses. Much better – and a fitting end to a meal that aimed to present the best of British.
And how about drink?
Bonnie & Wild is BYOB (another wallet-pleasing tick!), but works in partnership with local Wine Shop, The Sampler. The Sampler suggests wines to accompany the menu every week, with menu and wine suggestions emailed to all booked diners – wine can then be delivered to Bonnie & Wild with a 10% discount. How efficient! Our wine complemented the meal (and post-meal rockabilly jam-along) perfectly.
Overall thoughts?
It’s hard to criticise a venture so full of heart and enthusiasm, and in a landscape of overpriced pop-ups, Bonnie & Wild is a breath of fresh air.
Find out more about the Bonnie and Wild.
Photos by Joseph Guercio.
Hot Dinners were invited to eat at Bonnie and Wild. Prices are correct at the time of writing.
