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Test Driving Osteria del Mare, the kind of mid-tier seafood restaurant that London needs

osteria del mare london restaurant reviewThe dining room at Osteria del Mare - take a look at those massive octopus lights

What do we need to know about Osteria del Mare?

If you work anywhere near the Strand you may have spotted this huge seafood restaurant opening up just before Christmas. Think of this as the seafood-focused arm of the Bocconcino group of restaurants, which is behind it. In charge of the food is Chef Matteo Massafra who comes here via the Six Senses hotel in Ibiza and also Barrafina.

The restaurant's inspiration comes from the Tuscan coastal town of Forte dei Marmi. Not having had the pleasure, we're informed by Conde Nast traveller that the town has a certain Italy meets Miami Beach aesthetic. There is a rather fun seaside theme then in this restaurant from the seahorse and starfish broaches worn by the staff to the octopus light fittings, but it's done with a light touch rather than being overtly kitsch.

Where is it?

You'll find it diagonally across the road from The Savoy and around the corner from Joe Allen. It's taken over a huge space that used to be a Barclays bank and apparently they're going to be using one of the bank's old vaults as a private dining room downstairs. If you're heading here by public transport the nearest tube is either Charing Cross or Covent Garden.

Where should we meet for a drink first?

There is a separate bar here, although we didn't try the cocktails. Or there's a good watering hole just around the corner at Joe Allen which is always a good bet.

Where's a good place to sit?

As you might expect from any restaurant situated in an old banking hall the room is huge. We found a nice booth table towards the back of the room by the window which proved perfect for people watching on the Strand. There are plenty of tables that would be good for groups too and the restaurant's location close to so many theatres means it's a great spot for a pre or post-theatre meal.

What kind of food do they serve?

Italian seafood is the name of the game here. They say they're bringing "the best of Mediterranean seafood to London". So the menu comprises cold and hot antipasti, a pasta section, and a daily catch option, along with larger mains and even pizzas. If you landed up here with your extended family after a West End show you just know there would be something here for everyone.

Here's what we tried to give you an idea:

osteria del mare london restaurant reviewFlatbread with garlic and cherry tomatoes (£8) - more of a pizzette this will keep everyone going while you work out what to have from the extensive menu.

osteria del mare london restaurant reviewYellow tuna tartare with celery, red caviar, anchovies & tonnato mayo (£18) - we're a sucker for tuna tartare, but this one stood out not least for employing that fabulous tonnato mayo.

osteria del mare london restaurant reviewShrimp carpaccio with Stracciatella and basil (£19) - a dish that tastes way better than it looks. We were in a restaurant in London in the cold doldrums of January. This felt like a hit of sunshine.

osteria del mare london restaurant reviewOctopus with confit potatoes & crispy cavolo nero (£26) - the contrast between the soft confit potatoes and cavolo shards worked very well.

osteria del mare london restaurant reviewSwordfish tagliolini with sun-dried tomatoes and aubergine (£19) - one of those dishes which wouldn't win any prizes for looks but tasted amazing.

Is there anything on the menu if you're not into seafood or need something plant-based?

There's plenty to keep vegetarians happy from tropea onion and feta salads to pappardelle with wild mushrooms. And this was a particularly good starter option.

osteria del mare london restaurant reviewTruffle courgette flan (£21) - such a pretty veggie tart on a courgette sauce.

Room for dessert?

Desserts seem like a bit of an afterthought. Obviously there's tiramisu and a selection of gelato, but if you are making room then this should be your pick - it's definitely enough for two, or three, to share.

osteria del mare london restaurant reviewVanilla meringue cake (£13) - how something manages to be both light and heavy we're not sure, but this was nearly the undoing of us.

Overall thoughts

Hopefully, you've taken note of the prices of the dishes here. For good quality seafood in London, these are not bad at all, and they're even better when you consider what a touristy part of London Osteria Del Mare is situated in. There's definitely room on the London restaurant scene for a decently-priced, suits-all-comers seafood restaurant and this might just be it.

 

More about Osteria del Mare by Bocconcino

Where is it? 366 Strand, London WC2R 0JF

Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @osteria_delmare.

Hot Dinners dined as guests of Osteria del Mare. Prices correct at time of publication. 

 

 

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