The refreshed dining room at Murano in Mayfair
What do we need to know about Murano?
Angela Hartnett opened this high-end Mayfair Italian back in 2008 and it was a hit right out of the gate, winning a Michelin star just four months later (which it's kept ever since). A year after that star arrived, Hartnett bought the restaurant out from Gordon Ramsay Holdings and branched out on her own, eventually opening two more restuarants in a Murano diffusion line - Cafe Murano.
Fifteen years on it was time for the original to get a bit of a freshen-up so, over the summer, it closed for three weeks for a redesign.
What's changed?
The changes are subtle but the general effect has been to brighten the room up. There are new chandeliers, the bar's been painted pink and the tablecloths are gone. But it's not all about the room. The kitchen here has also undergone some more pronounced changes with a new head chef, George Ormond. Ormond had spent the time the restaurant was closed for the makeover working on a new menu which we were here to try.
The lighter brighter Murano 2.0
Where is it exactly?
You'll find it in the heart of Mayfair on Queen Street, just five-minute's walk from Green Park Station. It's an intimate restaurant, split into two parts with a popular private dining room featuring a glass wall looking directly into the kitchen.
For the menu, we're talking Italian, presumably?
We are. Memorable yet unfussy is how they describe their approach. The autumn menu that we tried is a la carte, but you get to pick how many courses you fancy - from three to six. Although some dishes can only be served as main sizes - we got a bit confused at that point. Anyway, we hedged our bets and went for the four-course option.
The first thing that comes out after the canapes (Gorgonzola gourgéres and pickled walnut treats if you'd like to know) is the bread and ham course - wafer-thin prosciutto with tomato studded foccacia and Angela's own label olive oil to dunk it in.
Then it's on to the meal proper...
Sea bass crudo, agrodolce grapes, melon, Ajo Blanco - a perfectly pitched sweet and savoury crudo offering
Smoked ricotta tartlet, pickled walnut, bresaola
Provolone & smoked potato agnolotti, lardo di colonnata - every bit as good as that description makes it sound
Chicken tortellini in brodo, pickled turnip - another stellar pasta dish
Plaice with coco beans, crab and a langoustine bisque - a regular dish on the menu where the fish changes according to what's been landed.
Saddleback pork with pickled plum and Roscoff onion - one of the best pork dishes we've had in a while
Room for dessert?
Rather stupidly we didn't know that the lemon tart had been on the menu since day one, so we really ought to have given that a go. Instead, we had these two very good alternatives:
Brown butter apple with Granny Smith sorbet and shortbread crumble - think deconstructed apple pie
Greengage soufflé with a spoonful of mascarpone & lemon sorbet slipped into it. Heaven.
What's the wine list like?
As you might expect there's a distinct focus on Italian wines, although there's plenty from other regions too. Prices start in the £60s going up to £2750 for a bottle of 2006 Masseto Toscana. A wine pairing's always a good way to enjoy the cellar. It's flexible to match both the number of dishes you go for and your budget/preferences. And if you're going all in you might as well finish up with a drop of great Grappa.
Overall thoughts:
It's impossible not to have a good time at Murano. Service is unforced and friendly and the food - both new dishes and classics - are all crowd-pleasers. From the solo diners and birthday celebrants through to romantic dates and group dinners, everyone was having a good time. Fifteen years on, Murano is more than holding its own in the competitive London restaurant scene.
More about Murano
Where is it? 20 Queen St, London W1J 5PP
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @muranolondon
Hot Dinners dined as guests of Murano. Prices correct at time of publication.
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