Part of the dining room at Mount St. Note the mosaic floor and, just off to the left, the Andy Warhol hanging behind the pass
What can you tell us about Mount St Restaurant?
It's the second part of two new openings in Mayfair from Artfarm, from the founders of modern art gallery group Hauser & Wirth (and we'll be getting back to the art side of things in a bit). They've previously opened The Fife Arms in Braemar and Somerset’s Roth Bar & Grill but this is their first London venture.
Downstairs is new Mayfair pub The Audley Public House, very much a traditional Mayfair pub at fairly standard Mayfair pub prices. But upstairs at Mount St. it's very different. Think high-end restaurant (although with a casual vibe) with a beautiful design that's designed to appeal to the art set.
Downstairs, it's all about The Audley, a classic Mayfair boozer.
And celebs too?
Yes, they've managed to attract in a slew of A-listers despite being open only a few weeks. Russell Crowe, Jimmy Carr, Princess Beatrice and more have all been in the door already. But all of these pale next to getting King Charles and Camilla, Queen Consort into the restaurant's launch (handily timed with Frieze), one of the royal couple's first social engagements since the funeral. So yes, you're in with a fairly good chance of a star spot here.
Where is it?
As the name gives away - it's on Mount Street in the heart of Mayfair. You'll find it just up the road from Scott's, on the corner of South Audley Street. You'll find the somewhat understated entrance on the right of the building, which leads to the restaurant upstairs.
Looking out onto the corner of Mount Street and South Audley Street from the restaurant. These tables in the corner of the room are the ones to get if you can.
And how does it look?
Very impressive. The thing that strikes the eye first is the floor, which is actually an artwork itself - "Broken Floor" by Rashid Johnson, a floor made up of varying mosaics throughout the restaurant. It's very impressive and obviously, one of a kind in London.
And that's definitely not it for the artwork as there are noted pieces right from the doorway, up the stairwell and throughout the room (you'll see an Andy Warhol behind the pass). We were told that, apparently, the artwork on display is actually worth more than the whole building. So it's well worth glancing around to take it in. Just try to not look like you're staring at other diners when you're actually looking at the art beside them (speaking from experience here...).
As for the dining room itself, the corner location means it's bathed in light during the day. We also liked the touch of leather (or similar) tabletops that are designed to weather over the coming months and years to bring that lived-in look.
So what about the food?
That comes from Jamie Shears, most recently seen at Cut at 45 Park Lane. Here, he's put together a menu that's been described as drawing inspiration from London's culinary history. So you're going to see a few somewhat unfamiliar dishes on the menu like a mock turtle croquette (made with veal) or Pigeons in Pimlico. That's apparently an old Victorian dish which was originally a pigeon, ham and bacon pie. The chef has updated it, replacing the ham with duck liver and then infused smoked bacon into the sauce, with the pigeon served en-croute.
Note that mains prices are very much high-end Mayfair here - quite a stark contrast to the pub below, which highlights the very different approach between pub and restaurant. But then, the quality really shines through.
Starting with a classic dish, Omelette Arnold Bennett (£16) - If you're unfamiliar with it, it's essentially a smoked haddock omelette (originally created for The Savoy) and it's done to absolute perfection here.
Portland crab, brown crab mayonnaise (£22 - or £33 as a main) - a straightforward classic.
The absolute must-have dish is the lobster pie for two with greens (£96). it is a frankly stunning pie, loaded with lobster (which we noted was spread very evenly around the pie). With a rich bisque sauce and pastry that gives away at the lightest touch, this is one of the best pies we've had in a good long while. It's big and rich enough to stretch to three people (but between two it does allow for seconds)
Worthy of note - the bubble and squeak (£6). Apparently, these are cooked for two hours before being deep fried and served with an HP hollandaise sauce. They are quite phenomenal. Again, a must order.
And to finish, something we haven't seen on menus for a while - blancmange. This is raspberry blancmange with white chocolate ice cream (£12). And very good it was, too. Could we see a blancmange comeback?
And they're open for breakfast too?
They are and breakfast is a more keenly-priced affair if you're looking for a more affordable way to check out the room and gawp at the art. There are classics like kippers, devilled kidneys on toast and that Omelette Arnold Bennett again. That's alongside dishes like Bacon Chop, Bubble & Squeak, Fried Duck Egg (£22) or their own Full English Breakfast (£22).
What about drinks?
The wine list seems very evenly priced for Mayfair, with a good few options available as carafes - something we'd like to see a bit more of in general, frankly. Glasses start at £8.50 (125ml) and carafes at £24 - that's for either a 2020 Albarino or a 2014 Spanish Rioja.
Of course - things move up quite significantly from there. While there are still many wines available under the £100 point for a bottle, the majority of the menu is over that point. So if that's your price range, then there's plenty to choose from here, heading upwards to the burgundy section where you'll find (at the time of writing) a 2009 Chambolle - Musigny 1er Cru les Gruenchers burgundy for £890. The perfect tipple for a celebration if you've just sold a painting perhaps?
There is a cocktail menu too (we didn't try them) priced at £18 and with their own takes on classics. So, for example, there's a Roasted Old Fashioned (Hennessy XO, Johnnie Walker Black Label, Roasted Chestnut Liqueur, Olorosso Sherry) or a Damson Negroni (Tanqueray London Gin, Dolin Blanc, Luxardo Bitter, Damson Plum Cordial).
Overall thoughts?
Mount St. Restaurant is a very strong, high-end Mayfair opening. The room looks stunning - it's very unlike anything else in the area - and the food is excellent throughout. That coupled with the fact that it's already become a celeb hangout (and had a visit from His Majesty The King) makes this an immediate hit. Now we'd like another helping of that lobster pie, please...
More about Mount St. Restaurant
Where is it? First Floor, 41-43 Mount St, London W1K 2RX
How to book: Book online
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @mountstrestaurant.
Hot Dinners ate as guests of Mount St. Restaurant. Prices are correct at the time of writing.
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