Test Driving Milk Beach - an all day spot in Queen's Park which now has room to flex its kitchen muscles

milk beach queens park london restaurant reviewThe new look Milk Beach in Queen's Park.

So what do we need to know about Milk Beach?

This Aussie-inspired spot spent the last three months being transformed. Having expanded into a neighbouring building they now have space for a bar, counter dining up at the kitchen (complete with Covid-appropriate perspex screens) and a large covered and heated outside space for alfresco dining.

Owner Elliot Milne used to work in Ethiopia with the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation which is where he set up the Coffee Initiative Project to help local coffee farmers. So you know the coffee will be great here too. And in the kitchen is Head chef Darren Leadbeater (who was previously at Frenchie, Wild Honey and Brunswick House).

milk beach queens park london restaurant reviewSince taking this picture, screens have now gone up for counter dining.

Where exactly is it?

You'll find it down Lonsdale Road in Queen's Park - the cobbled mews just off Salusbury Road. Nearest tube is Queen's Park but it's also a short walk from Brondesbury Park overground station.

Where should we meet friends for a drink first?

You could easily make a pit stop at Wolfpack tap-room on the same street - it's the pub for the microbrewery founded by ex-Saracens rugby players Chris Wyles and Alistair Hargreaves. But there's also a new bar space here at Milk Beach. There's a short, punchy cocktail list - the Milk Beach Martini (£9) with their own coffee, cocoa liqueur and orange vodka was pretty popular on the night we went. The wine comes from independent winemakers who practise low-intervention wine-making (wine tasting evenings are about to start). We tried their relaunch tasting flight - highlights were a revelationary Sauvignon Blanc from Gentle Folk in Adelaide and an unfiltered Robola from Kefalonia.

So what's on the menu?

It's split into nibbles - a range of small and larger sharing plates plus a dessert and a cheese plate. Here's what we had:

milk beach queens park london restaurant reviewFried potato gems (aka tater tots) topped with buttermilk and roe (£5) - we're totally going to steal this idea for Christmas canapes.

milk beach queens park london restaurant reviewRoasted padron peppers served with the most intense prawn bisque to scoop them through, seasoned with togarashi (£7)

milk beach queens park london restaurant reviewCrudo of seabream, soy, pickled daikon, furikake (£8) - a properly interesting crudo.

milk beach queens park london restaurant reviewSquid ink tagliatelle served with generous amounts of cock crab in a tomato fondue (£12)

milk beach queens park london restaurant reviewKoji marinated chicken ‘schnitty’ - Aussie slang for a schnitzel - which came with a lovely fermented chilli mayonnaise and some top chicken salt chips (£12)

What about vegetarians?

There's plenty to enjoy - vegan options included an enticing sounding dish of Gai-lan with macadamia cream and black garlic and we particularly liked this:

milk beach queens park london restaurant reviewLa Laterria burrata, Roscoff onions, Comice pears, amaranth (£9.50) - a winter treatment for burrata that works brilliantly.

Anything else we need to know?

Yes, pie lovers should be aware there's a cracking pie deal on offer here every day too. The Seasonal pie for two with a leaf salad and carafe of pairing wine is £33. As an example, the launch pie was Vietnamese fish curry pie enriched with creme fraiche and with a mashed potato lid - paired with an off-dry Gewürzt/Riesling blend.

Room for dessert?

There's just one dessert (and a cheese plate) so it would be rude not to.

milk beach queens park london restaurant reviewCoffee Custard Tart (using house-roasted single-origin coffee) with chocolate crumble (£6). A perfect example of the genre - custard perfect, tart thin and the crumble a nice textural touch.

Overall thoughts:

What a lovely spot Milk Beach is. Whether you're perched up at the kitchen counter, sipping a glass of wine by the bar or just enjoying brunch or dinner in the main restaurant, this is a really lovely neighbourhood spot that makes us very jealous of West London folk. If this is your part of town, you'll want to check it out for sure.


More about Milk Beach

Where is it? 19 Lonsdale Road, Queen’s Park, London NW6 6RA

How to book: book online here.

Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @milkbeachlondon

Hot Dinners dined as guests of Milk Beach. Prices correct at time of publication.

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