The ground floor room at Maresco which is all counter dining.
What do we need to know about Maresco?
This is the third opening for restaurateur Stephen Lironi, who along with Head Chef Pablo Rodriguez and Operations Manager Naroa Ortega has come into central London for the first time (their other restaurants are Bar Esteban in Crouch End and Escocesa in Stoke Newington). Maresco is a Spanish restaurant focusing on Scottish seafood.
Where is it?
You'll find it on the corner of Berwick Street and Noel Street in the heart of Soho. The nearest tube would probably the Dean Street exit of the Elizabeth Line at Tottenham Court Road.
Where should we meet friends for a drink first?
You're not stuck for options around here. Nearby potential meeting places include the bar at Social Eating House in nearby Poland Street or there's the Blue Posts further down Berwick Street.
So it's a tapas bar?
It is. The ground floor is all counter dining with seats up at the kitchen and along the windows. The sections of the counter that are divided into twos, looking out over Soho are particularly nice for couples or mates wanting to catch up. Downstairs there's a decent size dining room if you're eating here in a larger group and want to be at a table.
The downstairs dining room
What sort of food are we talking about?
Expect a lot of the usual classics, along with more dishes with a seafood focus. Here's what we had to give you an idea.
Pan con tomate (£2.50)
Croquetas menorquinas with sobresada (£9.50)
Presa Iberica served with a vegetable escalivada & wild mushrooms (£18)
But the seafood's the big draw?
It is and there's plenty to try from specials that rely on what's been delivered from Scotland waters that morning through to always-on dishes.
Txistorra de mar with spicy yogurt & talo (£12) - a seafood take on the traditional Basque sausage, made here with mackerel and monkfish.
Bocadillo de calamar (£9) - the must-have dish in a squid ink roll. Just LOOK at it.
Bomba maresco (£8) a deep-fried treat filled with Shetland mussels and served on a fennel sofrito.
Loch Duart salmon tartare in a bowl of ajo blanco with diced cucumber (£14)
What's on the menu for vegetarians?
In addition to snacks like olives and that pan con tomate there's a separate vegetables section - the cauliflower with mojo verde and the chargrilled leeks with romesco sauce were both flying out of the kitchen.
Tempura courgette flower stuffed with goat cheese (£11) - if you can resist this dish when you see it on a menu then you're stronger than us and this was a lovely example.
Room for dessert?
The dessert menu is short and after all that tapas we almost didn't make it that far, However, we combined two of the desserts into one dish which worked out perfectly.
Torrijas with crema Catalana ice-cream (£7.50) - wonderfully cinnamon-crusted bread pudding with an ice-cream that uncannily recalled the best crema Catalinas we've had. They also do a very nice-looking Basque cheesecake and a cheese plate too.
What about the wine?
The wine list here is an absolute belter. It's exclusively Spanish and, as far as we could tell, consists entirely of lovely stuff that owner Stephen has come across on his travels. If he's in the house, then he's by far the best person to talk you through your options. We tried a few by the glass, which allowed us to give it a good going over - highlights for us included a couple of great bottles from Tenerife including the single vineyard El Esquilon and a Pet Nat from Cataluyna (both £12 for a glass). Prices start at £6.50 for a 125ml glass.
Overall thoughts:
The arrival of a new tapas spot in town is always usually a good news story, but Maresco feels like it definitely brings something new to the table. Using fabulously fresh Scottish seafood in Spanish dishes is a great idea - diners get to celebrate the best bounty from the British Isles while feeling like they could be propping up the bar somewhere in Bilbao. Very much recommended.
More about Maresco
Where is it? 45 Berwick St, London W1F 8SF
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @maresco_soho
Hot Dinners dined as guests of Maresco. Prices correct at time of publication.
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