Looking down on the main dining area at Marceline
What can you tell us about Marceline?
Put simply, it's a big floating French brasserie in Canary Wharf. It comes from some of the team behind Hovarda (which will itself be opening a second location underneath Marceline), with the kitchen and menu led by chef Robert Aikens. He happens to be Tom Aikens' twin and has recently been doing big things in New York, specifically relaunching Pastis there. Here in London, his menu is classic in style while also being notably accessible and pretty good value.
Where is it?
If you've ever been to or seen Hawksmoor in Wood Wharf, you would have noticed the carbon copy building, floating in the water beside it. Marceline has taken over the top floor of that building and as such it's pretty easy to track down (the prominent signage certainly helps). It's closest to the Jubilee Line Canary Wharf station and about a 10-minute walk from the Elizabeth Line.
This is what you're looking for. It's hard to miss. Marceline takes up the whole of the top floor, while Hovarda will be opening below (in September).
Where should we go for a drink first?
There is a bar area at Marceline and the cocktails are great here (more of that in a bit) but otherwise the most obvious place for a quick drink is The Lowback, taking over the bottom floor of Hawksmoor Wood Wharf and within stumbling distance of Marceline.
Where should we sit?
Inside, we'd say to aim for a table that looks out onto Canary Wharf - it's always a slightly mesmerising view. But if the weather is even halfway decent, grabbing a seat on the terrace would be well worth considering.
If the weather is good, you'll want to be out here on the terrace.
So what's on the menu?
It's a classic French brasserie menu with a few surprises along the way. As we've recently seen with restaurants like Josephine and Henri, classic French food is making something of a comeback in London and it's easy to see why. The food at Marceline might not take as big swings as something like Josephine does, but it's clearly aimed at a broader audience and that's in no way a bad thing.
Here, you'll find a very accessible menu that should please everyone - from the more adventurous types who'll happily opt for the escargots or more fussy types who will find a great rotisserie chicken or a steak sandwich on the menu. It's a broad-reaching affair that's also pretty decent value (that steak sandwich is £14).
Before we mention anything else - we have to talk about the bread:
Free-flowing bread (£2 per person)
Yes, for £2 each, you'll get plenty of warm baguettes delivered like they're straight from the oven for as long as you like, with great salted butter (served at the perfect room temperature). They had already won us over by this point (and we might have overindulged a bit on the carbs during the meal as a result).
Also on the menu is the dish that's probably the one that you'll see popping up on your social feed the most:
Ravioli Dauphiné with Comté, crème fraiche and brown butter (£14) - essentially a sheet of uncut ravioli. It's excellent and a must-order.
As for the rest of the menu, here's a taste:
Warm cheese soufflé, Gruyère cream and truffle (£14)
Sugar-pit bacon chop with sauce charcuterie (£28) - a huge slab of bacon chop. You'll need to drink a lot of water after this dish, mind.
Steak frites - onglet with maître d’hotel butter (£19). Perfectly cooked steak and at under £20 it's a veritable London bargain.
Profiteroles with cookie crust, banana, vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce (£8) - with the sauce poured on at the table.
Creme caramel (£7) - a pitch-perfect creme caramel and once again, great value.
Anything else to highlight?
Elsewhere on the menu, you'll find dishes as varied as a simple cheeseburger to a croque monsieur. As for vegetarians, like many French brasseries, they're not perhaps catered for quite as well, but in addition to the ravioli and souffle, there are also salads, a wild mushroom vol au vent, and a veggieburger "à l’Americaine".
It's an all-day space, so there are separate breakfast and brunch menus. Those add dishes like a "Petit Fillet Steak and Eggs", French toast (of course), eggs benedict/royale, omelettes and more.
What about drink?
Much like the rest of the menu, there's a very decently-priced entry-level wine of a 2022 Grenache Chardonnay or a 2022 merlot at £30 which is great value for a big new restaurant these days. The wine list is largely European and once you get past the entry-level prices, it's more in the £50-70 level range for a bottle (with plenty available by the glass/carafe). At the upper end, you're looking at a 2011 Corton Grand Cru pinot noir from Burgundy for £339.
The cocktail list is well worth a look too, with prices mainly a very reasonable £12, and we'd strongly recommend the two martinis.
The two sips martini (£5 and really three sips if we're honest) is a great way to start and the French martini no.5 (vodka, roasted pineapple, raspberry, cognac, Chambord, £12) is also excellent.
Overall thoughts
Marceline is a traditional grand-cafe-style French brasserie that we can see doing very well in Canary Wharf, feeling in many ways quite close to Corbin & King openings of old. Apparently, as well as appealing to Canary Wharf workers, they really want to bring in people who are actually living in the area as regulars - and we can see that working. it's a menu with something for everyone, delivered well and all represents very good value. This will do very well, we think.
More about Marceline
Where is it? Wood Wharf, 10 Water St, London E14 5GX
How to book: Book online or call 020 75543344
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @marceline.london.
Hot Dinners ate as guests of Marceline. Prices are correct at the time of writing.
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