Inside London Shell Co
So what do we need to know about the new London Shell Co?
If you're not already familiar with the group, they run two restaurants on barges down by Paddington. The Grand Duchess remains moored at Paddington while the Prince Regent travels up and down the Regent's Canal. Now the team has just opened a new place in Highgate.
Highgate? But there isn't a canal there...
You're absolutely right. This new opening will be their first land-based business. It's actually a combo fishmonger and seafood bar.
So it's more than a restaurant?
Absolutely, if you're in the area (or happen to be nearby on the Heath), this is an excellent fishmonger, and there's a big selection of wine to take home too. Much of what you see in the fishmonger part will also be available in the restaurant section to eat in too.
If you're just popping in for something to take home for supper, there's plenty to choose from up at the counter.
So where is it?
You'll find it at the Highgate Road end of Swain's Lane, right next door to the newish Superette and just a stone's throw from the heath. It's not the easiest of places to get to by public transport. Probably the nearest station is Gospel Oak on the overground line (about a 10-minute walk away).
Where's a good place to meet for a drink first?
The easiest answer to this is the nearby Bull & Last, one of North London's great pubs which does an extensive line in good beer and lots of wines on tap.
So, back to the London Shell Co. where should we sit?
It's not a huge place, so the main section is a row of six marble-topped tables along the right-hand side of the space. But there's also a central table with stools which has room for maybe eight as well (there will be masterclasses on this later on). In the summer there should also be a few tables outside too.
And the food?
As with any good fish restaurant what you'll find on the menu is, in the main, dictated by what's been landed recently. Here that's expanded with oysters, smoked fish and other fishy treats like caviar. Start with the bread (£2 per person) not just because it's fresh and warm out of the oven, but because it also comes with a fabulously savoury crab butter topped with chives and with a good chilli kick.
Bread and crab butter (£2 per person).
Oysters - these were Gallagher oysters from Donegal. You could have them undressed at £3.50 a pop or given the London Shell Co-treatment of rhubarb and creme fraiche for £4 each. Look out for their £2 oyster happy hour daily when oysters are £2 and you also get £2 off a glass of wine too.
Scallops (£5 each) with an obscene amount of wild garlic butter. Hold back some of your bread from earlier for mopping this up.
Ling fillet (£22) with salsa verde and mushrooms
Mussels with white wine sauce (£14)
You'll also find a selection of sides that, when we were there, included roast potatoes with anchovies, bitter leaf and blood orange salad and pink fir potatoes.
Room for dessert?
There were two options on the blackboard on our visit so it seemed only sensible to try both.
Baked apple with caramel and creme fraiche (£6)
Spanish blue cheese with pickled walnuts (£8) - nice touch having homemade crackers.
What's on the drinks list?
We were sorely tempted by the vodka martini (£12 or £22 with caviar) but, as we were here for lunch we kicked things off with a glass of their Grand Duchess English fizz (£8) instead, followed by glasses of a very lovely Santa Barbara Chardonnay (£12) and South African Sauvignon Blanc (£8).
See all those shelves of wine at the back? There's no physical wine list so you're encouraged to go and browse and pick a bottle from there.
Overall thoughts:
We popped in for lunch on the second weekend they were open and the place was full of happy locals checking the place out - we even spotted Sue Perkins popping her head in for a gander. If this isn't your neck of the woods, make a day of it with a walk on the nearby heath before treating yourself to a meal here. If this is your hood, then all we can say is lucky, lucky you.
More about London Shell Co
Where is it? Unit 4, Sonny Heights, Swains Lane, London N6 6AG
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @londonshellco.
Hot Dinners dined as guests of London Shell Co. Prices correct at time of publication.
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