It’s been referred to as ‘the Japanese tequila’, but has never really found its feet in the capital. With very few dedicated tastings, bars or shops, how much do we really know about sake?
Saki, a Japanese restaurant/shop/tasting room hybrid tucked unobtrusively behind Smithfield market, offers an authentic taste of the Japanese nectar. Hot Dinners was invited along to one of their speciality sake pairing dinners and steeled ourselves for a night of hard drinking, Tokyo-style.
Despite the popular conception of sake as a potent elixir to put you under the table, well brewed sake is designed to be savored, sipped like wine and paired with food.
Served hot or cold depending on region and season, sake has a relatively mild alcohol content of between 13% and 16%, making it a smoother ride than a night of hard spirits. Saki, which has been catering to the UK’s expats and Japanese enthusiasts since 2009, takes the business of sake very, very seriously.
Over ten distillers from different regions attended the pairing dinner, which married two different varieties of sake with each course, and a sparkling cocktail with Zuisen Kabuchi Citrus Liqueur to get the night kicked off.
Saki have filled a niche in the market by appealing to many groups – hurried expats and connoisseurs who want to stop by to pick up a favourite bottle, a sushi and cocktail bar for curious casuals and a full dining room for those looking to savour their sake experience with a full tasting menu. The dining room offers a dramatic centerpiece, and a central square table for guests, barbeque style.
The restaurant recruit their chef staff directly from Japan, and the standard is extremely high, even for Roku and Nobu regulars. Fresh seabass sashimi came directly from the sushi bar, while a silky eel and foie gras spring roll was a perfect rich compliment to the sharp drinks on offer.
Sake traditionally pairs extremely well with beef and seafood, as the clean taste (at times reminiscent of vodka) tempers their strong aromas. A tender rib eye, sliced and served with warm sake from the Yamagata region provided the meal’s highlight, followed by fresh and plump sushi and one of the tastiest miso soups we’ve ever had.
Sake tasting is, after all, a serious business. Sake breweries are dotted throughout Japan, each offering a slight variation on the drink and refining the process of brewing and fermenting. An experienced drinker can identify not only the region, but the brewery from a single sip.
While we’re not quite at master level, we applaud Saki for offering a window into the genuine Japanese dining and drinking culture without a conveyor belt in sight. A must do for anyone looking to stretch themselves beyond noodles and sashimi.
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