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Test Driving Il Gattopardo - a Mayfair Italian that delivers on food and vibes

ALTThe main dining room at Il Gattopardo

Il Gattopardo. Sounds Italian...

Got it in one. This is the new restaurant from the mostly Mayfair-based restaurant group that's also responsible for Coya, Amazonico and Bar des Pres. With their other restaurants hitting up South America and France for inspiration, this time they've headed to Italy. To be more precise, it's southern Italy that's the focus of attention with Abruzzo-native chef Massimo Pasquerelli using his homeland as muse.

The name means The Leopard - a fact that's represented with design details throughout the restaurant.

And it's in Mayfair?

That's right, it's just up the road from their other place, Bar des Pres, right next door to Isabel Mayfair in a building that used to house an art gallery. If you're getting here by public transport rather than chauffeur-driven limo, your nearest tube is Green Park.

Where should we meet for a drink first?

The nearest place for a good pre-dinner cocktail would probably be The Donovan Bar at Browns hotel on the same street. Otherwise, The Goat Tavern just round the corner is a decent shout for a pint.

Once we're there, where should we sit?

This is a more complicated question, because the restaurant's split into various distinctly different areas. As you enter, there's a crudo bar for counter dining. Then you have the main dining room looking out onto the street.

But if you head through into the back section of the restaurant you'll find a room with a retractable glass roof that'll be a great hidden courtyard space in good weather, but which is currently firmly kept shut at the moment. And we're not finished yet. From here there's what feels like a tiny bridge through into a final section of the restaurant, a semi-private room that can seat 16 but can also be used as part of the restaurant proper.

il gattopardo mayfair restaurant reviewIf you're a counter dining person - head for the crudo bar just as you enter.

First, cocktails...

The cocktail menu's a work of art in itself with no fewer than four negroni options on there along with some aperitivo options and signature drinks. There's also a decent mocktail offering too.

il gattopardo mayfair restaurant reviewLeft to right: Casanova 70 (£18) - Pistachio-infused Bulleit Bourbon, with coconut, orange blossom and lemon bitter; and the Choco Negroni (£16) made with Del Professore Mounsier Gin, Campari, chocolate vermouth and coffee.

What about the food?

The menu is so big here it's actually a bit confusing. It starts with salads before leading onto crudo and cold cut options and also antipasti. There's pasta, pizzette along with fish and meat options and then there's also a Padella section with sharing options. All in all, there's a lot to choose from and it might repay several visits before you work out what you like best.

Here's what we had from sections from all over the menu to give you a flavour of the place:

il gattopardo mayfair restaurant reviewGamberi crudo (£28) - Sicilian Mazara prawns with yellow chicory, citrus zest and Taggiasca extra virgin olive oil

il gattopardo mayfair restaurant reviewVitello tonnato (£21) - a particularly good version made with veal magatello, tuna anchovy cream and served with a green bean and fennel salad.

il gattopardo mayfair restaurant reviewVeal Milanese (£46) - a whopper of a milanese made with a veal tomahawk and served with the most heavenly anchovy, caper and lemon brown butter before being carved at the table. It was maybe the best Milanese we've had in a while.

il gattopardo mayfair restaurant reviewLobster with agria potato gnocchi in a lobster reduction (£48) - a carby, deeply lobster-infused dish.

That all sounds pretty meat and fish-heavy. What's on the menu for vegetarians?

There are a few enticing options for vegetarians from the pizette with truffled mascarpone and truffle shavings to the Tuscan kale salad with ricotta, pomegranate and caper berries. Three of the four pasta options are veggie-friendly too.

Sides are also strong and we particularly loved this...

il gattopardo mayfair restaurant reviewGrilled corn polenta with roasted bell peppers (£9) - a perfect combination with those peppers roasted into sweet submission a perfect foil for the polenta.

Room for dessert?

If you prefer cheese, there's a strong offering here at Il Gattopardo and there's also a section with two dessert options served up family-style for sharing. There's also a Frutta section with mixed berries and macerated fruits on offer.

The tiramisu comes highly recommended too, but we'd swerve that for a change and opt for this: 

il gattopardo mayfair restaurant reviewZuppa Inglese (£12) - a superb rendition of the Florentine trifle dish made with a rum custard with quite the kick. 

il gattopardo mayfair restaurant reviewMaritozzo (£14) - Brioche buns filled with chocolate custard and Chantilly cream and sure to be the cause of controversy between couples on who nabs the last one. A great option if you're looking for a light finish.

What about the wine list?

As you might imagine the 450-bottle list here has a clear focus on Italian wines, with French options the second largest section to choose from. As we're in Mayfair it would be surprising to find anything under the £50 mark but there is a Verdiccio and Barbera d'asti that just sneak under that point. Mostly though you're going to be finding some great Italian wines, with some great options from Cantina Terlano, Pieropan, Aldo Conterno, Tinanello and Sassicaia.

Overall thoughts

If you were thinking that Il Gattopardo was going to be just another shiny personality-free new Mayfair Italian, prepare to be pleasantly surprised. We came away thinking it had all the vibes of a Big Mamma-style restaurant but with a stronger food and drink offering. The place was already rammed when we visited in week two of opening, so it seems like the folks of Mayfair agree.

 

More about Il Gattopardo

Where is it? Il Gattopardo, 27 Albemarle Street, Mayfair, London W1S 4HZ

Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @gattopardorestaurant.

Hot Dinners dined as guests of Il Gattopardo. Prices correct at time of publication.

 

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