Right down the end of Islington's Chapel Market, you'll find Hicce Hart
What can you tell us about Hicce Hart?
Put simply, it's the second outing of Hicce, which was originally launched in King's Cross by chef Pip Lacey and business partner Gordy McIntyre. Here, they've reinvented their approach to suit a pub format, bringing in chef Charlotte Harris (previously at Hicce and Fallow) to run the kitchen. So expect a similar approach to the food as you might have encountered in Hicce, but perhaps leaning a little more to the comfort food end of the spectrum and embracing the need to serve their own take on pub food.
Where is it?
You'll find it right at the very end of Chapel Market (i.e. the opposite end from the one that's nearest to the tube station, Angel). If you're familiar with the area, they've taken over what used to be the Day & Night pub in Islington (which was The Joker before that).
So, is it still a pub where you can pop in for a drink?
Absolutely - tables are kept back for walk-ins and there are a few tall tables with high stools that are ideal for popping in. There's also a specific bar snacks menu if you just fancy a few snacks and a pint. They include plates like fennel & aubergine with pasta crisp (£5) and a 100g beef bavette for a tenner.
The pub's ground floor, looking into the main open kitchen.
Where should we sit?
There are two levels to the pub and the first floor is blessed with an open fire. So if it's a chilly day and the fire's on, that's definitely something to head for. On the ground floor anywhere is good, with the best table being the sole booth in the corner of the room (you can just see that at the back of the photo above).
Onto the food - what can we expect?
Islington has been spoiled of late with new pubs that are delivering something above and beyond the traditional pub menu - like The Tamil Prince and The Baring. Hicce Hart continues this very welcome trend with a menu that's focused on British produce, has clear links with the menu at the original Hicce but still feels right in a pub.
Here's a selection of what we had on the night.
Crispy pulled pork bites with their own homemade brown sauce (£9). A great snack to start with - but we weren't too sure about the presentation on the huge long plate.
Cheesy polenta with mushrooms (£5) - this was a gorgeous veggie dish.
Squash curry with mint and cashews (£14) - this was declared one of the best vegetarian dishes he'd ever had by our fellow diner. Very highly recommended.
Chicken & broccoli pie, creamy mash (£18) - Some might quibble with this being described as a pie (it only has a pastry lid), but if you can get past that, this is a great dish.
A special shout-out to some of the sides, which are pretty elevated all in themselves. These are leeks, lardo and brazil nuts (£7) and are a must-order. The crunchy side of potato dauphinoise (£5) is also well worth getting.
What about dessert?
Much as we enjoyed the above, the desserts were absolute showstoppers. Without a doubt, make sure you leave room for at least one of these.
Chocolate stout cake with caramel and cream cheese (£7) - Using the stout from the bar, this is lighter than you might imagine and perfect for two to share.
Rhubarb & custard Paris Brest (£7) - Getting in early as a possible contender for dessert of the year, this was absolutely amazing. There's an incredible lightness to the pastry (much more so than your usual Paris Brest), which contains soft rhubarb and just the best custard. Really, really good.
What about drink?
The beer comes from Wood Green's The Goodness Brewery, including the stout that goes into the cake above. As for wines, there's a short list by the glass and carafe with prices starting at £4.50 for a 125 glass, £17 for a carafe and £23 for a bottle (in this case an unfiltered Ciello from Catarratto, Sicily or a `Caminante` Tempranillo from Vina Albergada in Spain.
There is a more extensive wine list in addition to the short bar menu, so if you're going for a bottle, make sure to take a look at that too. It's a predominantly (but not solely) European list and there are extensive tasting notes for all the wines, so it's well worth perusing that if you're in the mood for something new. All in all, it's a great wine list for a pub.
In addition to that, there are cocktails. Their negroni is on tap (batch created every day) and there are also seasonal cocktails like their current "winter warmers", They include the "Cuddle-mi" - which is Johnnie Walker, honey syrup, lemon juice and chamomile tea (all cocktails at £9.50).
Do they do Sunday lunch?
Of course. Served with all the trimmings, you can currently choose from free-range half chicken, herb-stuffed rolled pork belly or a barley, ale and hazelnut tart (and a kids' roast is available too). In addition to this, they also have a weekday lunch menu. That's a main with a drink for £12 that includes a roast pork sandwich as one of the options.
Overall thoughts?
All in all, the Hicce team have delivered a great Islington pub. The menu here keeps them very distinct from any other pub in the immediate area, while still maintaining that pub feel. The wine list is great and the desserts are truly next-level. If you're in the area, this is absolutely worth checking out.
More about Hicce Hart
Where is it? 58 Penton Street, London N1 9PZ
How to book: 15 November 2022
Offer: Use our reader deal to get 25% off food at hicce hart this January.
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @hiccehart
Hot Dinners dined as guests of hicce hart. Prices correct at time of publication.
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