Test Driving The Plimsoll - Four Legs' Finsbury Park boozer with great food

The Plimsoll pub by Four Legs in Finsbury ParkStraddling Plimsoll and St Thomas's Roads - the Plimsoll may not have a name outside yet, but does it even need one?

Is this the Four Legs pub we've been hearing so much about?

It is the very same. The Four Legs team first came to everyone's attention during their residency at Islington pub, The Compton Arms. They created a banging burger (among other things) and quickly found a large fanbase of London foodies. Now they've opened the doors to their own pub, The Plimsoll.

Where exactly is it?

Arsenal fans and Highbury locals will know this better as the former Auld Triangle pub on the corner of Plimsoll Road and St Thomas's where it was a popular pre and post-match watering hole. The pub is equidistant between Arsenal and Finsbury Park tube stations.

Is it a pub or a gastropub?

Very much a pub with great food, if that makes sense. Over the past few months the team have decluttered the old place, clearing away a decade's worth of St Patrick's Day merchandise and revealing the rather lovely bare bones of this Victorian establishment as well as reverting the pub to its old name. The place is split into two distanct parts - the bar for walk-ins and the dining room which can be booked.

ALTThis is the dining section with open kitchen (you can see the bar through to the left)

What's on the menu?

You'll get an inkling of what to expect from checking out their Instagram account which occasionally puts up menus and is great at showcasing new dishes. During the week it's open for dinner and at the weekends they serve up a reduced bar menu with oysters, tortilla and usually fish on the plancha. Here's what we had on a recently Friday night (the pub is VERY dark in the dining room so you'll have to excuse our photos).

ALTComté fritters (£8) - little clouds of fried cheese and every bit as good as that sounds written down.

ALTFried potatoes with aioli (£5) - so good, we actually ordered another bowl of these.

ALTPigeon bhuna (£13) - an inventive take on game and one that served the pigeon really well.

ALTChicken parmagiana (£18) - a huge portion of cheesy topped chicken that was more than enough for two to share.

ALTDexter cheeseburger (£13) - if you haven't had Four Legs' legendary burger before, you should order it but do know that this kitchen's output is definitely so much more than just this.

Room for dessert?

Tables are booked for a 90-minute turn around so we didn't manage to make it as far as dessert (we needed a short break after the above), but there's usually a cheese option on there, and we've been seeing amazing pictures of a chocolate dessert that has our names on it for a future date.

What about the booze?

Aside from the beer, the shortish wine list features one bottle in the sub £30 section and goes up to £55 for a Bourgogne or £60 for a Jura Gamay. If you want to head through to the pub once your table slot is up there are what looks to be a nice list of digestifs too.

Overall thoughts:

Was there ever any doubt that Four Legs team were going to score a huge hit with their own pub? Trying to get a seat here is insanely difficult (our tip would be to try for cancellations on the day if you don't want to be depressed at how far in advance you'll need to book). It's buzzy, busy and warm - our only quibble would be wanting just a little more time at the table to enjoy even more of that menu.

Exterior photo: @simonspubtour


More about The Plimsoll

Where is it? 52 St Thomas’s Road, London N4 2QW

How to book: Book online

Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @the.plimsoll or @fourlegs_ldn


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