The dining room at Eline. You can just about spot the kitchen at the back, and that's the wine shop (called "Kimchi") on the left.
What can you tell us about Eline?
Eline comes from Alex Reynolds and Maria Viviani, who originally met while working at the Hackney outpost of Pophams. There, Alex quickly earned a great reputation as the chef behind the evening menu there (with previous experience at Hide and Seven Park Place), while Maria worked as a pastry chef while also becoming an expert in natural wine.
Post-pandemic, they made the decision to go it alone. They've brought everything they've learned to their first joint venture (named after Alex's grandmother) and they describe their aim as "making people happy through delicious food and wine".
Where is it?
You'll find Eline less than five minutes' walk from Hoxton station, just off Hackney Road. It's part of a new apartment complex in the area.
Where should we meet for a drink first?
You'll definitely want to be sampling the wine list at Eline (we'll get to that below), but there's a lot in the area to try out. The Sager and Wilde wine bar is just one street away and it's only a short walk to the Marksman for a pint. You could also do what we did and start the evening at one of London's best bars - the Bar with Shapes for a Name. That's a little further away (a 10-15 minute walk down Kingsland Road), but it's well worth it for a look at one of the hottest places on London's cocktail scene right now.
So what can we expect from the food at Eline?
The menu is seasonally based and changed monthly, so you'll be rewarded by repeat visits, something which we'd say would be likely from our own experience. It's a smallish menu, but very focused with around three choices of snacks, starters and mains. We found it very much a case of "I'd like all of this" on first glance.
As the name of the restaurant refers to Alex's French grandmother, the menu will also reference his French roots, including fresh takes on French classics, like the duck a l'orange below.
Here's a taste of what's on offer, based on our visit in Late December. Spoilers - it's all really, really good:
Whipped chicken liver parfait, pear and grape chutney (£6) - a whipped cream that you can spread on their own bread (which as you can imagine from the Pophams background of the owners is also amazing).
Home-cured lamb and duck (£10) - charcuterie with a difference. We don't often see either lamb or duck as cured options. The duck in particular turned out phenomenal in the curing process.
Partridge, celeriac and poached quince (£12) - served during December, so maybe a little light Christmas reference?
Late autumn truffle, chervil root Casoncelli, parmesan sauce (£15) - a properly interesting pasta dish
Duck a l'orange, endive and potato terrine (£27) - the duck returns, with a perfectly crispy skin. A take on a French classic that brings it right up to date.
Monkfish, braised leeks and lardo chicken sauce (£26) - yes, it's hard to resist anything with the words "lardo chicken sauce".
Chocolate fondant and milk ice cream (£9) - warm fondants can be a heavy affair, but this was notable for its lightness.
Cardamom custard tart and mixed spice ice cream (£9) - A custard tart is normally a trigger dish for us, and this is a nigh-on perfect example. Beautifully delicate pastry.
How is it for vegetarians?
You'll find one option per course (although it's just nocellara olives for the snacks) with the main on our visit being slow-roasted beetroot, confit garlic puree and white garlic sauce (£22).
What about wine?
As mentioned above, the wine list is all-natural (with the skin-contact wines marked out in case that's not your cup of tea) as well as a focus on small suppliers and sustainability.
We found the wine list to be one of the most affordable lists we've seen in recent London new openings. Prices start at £19 a bottle (in this case a Valli Unite Allessandrino winter) with 12 wines at £30 or under (including a sparkling). So there's a real opportunity to try something new here and if you're still a little unfamiliar with natural wines, take the opportunity to get some recommendations from co-founder Maria.
We went for the Jean Francois Debourg Litron Blanc, which is a great option for a litre at £30. And if you fancy more to try at home, make a quick pitstop at the shop on the way out.
Overall thoughts
For their first joint venture, it's fair to say that Alex Reynolds and Maria Viviani have created a must-visit addition to the Hackney restaurant scene. The menu delivered hit after hit, and they also excel in their own pastry, bread and charcuterie. If you're looking for a great new restaurant to kick off 2023 - this should be at the top of your list.
Hot Dinners ate as guests of Eline. Prices are correct at the time of writing.
More about Eline
Where is it? 1C Rosewood Building, Cremer Street, London E2 8GX
How to book: Book online
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @elinelondon
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