The main dining room of Dovetale (the terrace is out the back)
What can you tell us about Dovetale?
This is the second restaurant opening of 2023 for the very busy Tom Sellers. He's already opened Story Cellar in Covent Garden to great acclaim as wel as gearing up to re-open the two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Story later this year, which is going through a big refurb. Here, he's providing the restaurant for the swanky new Mayfair 1 Hotel but he's also backed up by a pretty impressive team that includes Tom Anglesea (ex-Laughing Heart) as 1 Hotel's exec chef and Chase Lovecky (ex-Two Lights) as head chef.
Where is it?
The new 1 Hotel in Mayfair (the first of that sustainable luxury hotel brand to land here in the UK) is in a new development at the Piccadilly end of Berkeley Street, just round the corner from Green Park and almost opposite the Ritz. It takes the space of what was once the Holiday Inn Mayfair, so it's all gone significantly more upmarket.
A look at Dover Yard, the main cocktail bar at 1 Hotel Mayfair
Where should we go for a drink first?
For excellent cocktails, both The Connaught and Dukes are both relatively nearby (albeit in opposite directions) and the places to go for martinis. But we think you'll also want to check out 1 Hotel's own cocktail bar Dover Yard, which mere days after the launch of the hotel had already become something of a scene. A notably large cocktail bar by Mayfair standards it's an impressive-looking spacer, some questionable seating aside (we're not convinced by the rocker chairs or cork stools).
There's a interesting cocktail list here, which comes from Matteo Carretta (previously at Claridge's). Here you'll find twists on classics, a focus on low waste with "repurposed ingredients" from the Dovetale kitchen, and a separate bar snacks menu by the Sellers' team (including a wagyu cheeseburger, duck & pork rillettes and fried chicken with honey hot sauce). On that cocktail list, we think this is the drink you'll want to go for:
This is the cocktail to order. Pan Brioche - Lakes "The ONE", Grand Marnier, croissant falernum, lemon and egg white (£19) - and with a little croissant on top!
Into the restaurant, where should we sit?
If the weather is playing nice, then there's one place you'll definitely want to be, their terrace. Somewhat hidden at the back of the hotel, well away from the Mayfair supercars, you'll find this capacious oasis:
The terrace at Dovetale. An absolutely beautiful oasis (and note the roaring fire at the back).
That's absolutely going to be the place to be inside Dovetale, and even though it's open to the elements on the sides, there are plenty of heaters there (while also being completely covered from the copious amount of rain we've had recently). The rest of the dining room looks pretty great too (see the picture at the top of the page), but there's another space that also looks wonderful - the raw bar (you can ask to be seated here if you fancy).
The beautiful raw bar which is also directly opposite the kitchen (that's on the right). Note also that booth at the back left - if it's privacy you're looking for, that's the place to be.
What about the food?
The restaurant is billed as serving reimagined European classics and as with the rest of the hotel, has a strong eye on sustainability. In practice, you're looking at a fairly traditionally structured three-course menu, with added highlights from the raw bar and the grill. So you'll find some familiar sights on there like sole veronique, beef carpaccio and more, but significantly elevated thanks to Sellers and the crew. As such, it's a very accessible menu but one that still has some truly standout dishes.
Here's a selection, based on what we ordered.
Carpaccio of English Wagyu "Harry's Bar" with hot mustard, chives & beef fat chips (£28). This is the must-order and those 'chips' are pretty phenomenal too.
We love a good terrine and Tom Sellers is on a roll with these at the moment (the Story Seller terrine is excellent). This is guinea fowl & lardo terrine (£22) but it also adds in some duck liver parfait for good measure. We also approve of the very generous amount of toasted brioche it came with.
A classic dish reinvented, this is their take on Dover Sole Veronique (£55) with the sole filleted and then stuffed with a scallop and tarragon mousse. It comes with roasted grapes, cauliflower and horseradish puree, roasted cauliflower and verjus and then finished with tarragon oil.
What about vegetarian options?
It's a pretty good menu for vegetarians, with some really excellent options, including a signature dish:
The Ratatouille Byaldi, which is based on Thomas Keller's dish (which was used in the Pixar film). Although it's actually a side dish (£8) It is easily one of the best ratatouilles you'll ever have. Another must-have.
The pastry work is notably on-point too. This is an Isle of Wight Tomato tart filled with a light horseradish cream and topped with basil (£19)
Slightly obscured by all the truffle, this is the black truffle & potato agnolotti with roast potato butter & Corra Linn (£36). They had us at roast potato butter, frankly.
And dessert?
You'll definitely need to save room here. The main draw by far is the Knickerbocker Glory station. When the time for dessert comes you'll have the option of a traditional dessert menu or a card with lots of checkboxes for a build-your-own Knickerbocker.
It's not a million miles away from The Beaumont's build-your-own-sundae. Just tick the boxes for what you want in your sundae - ice cream (including traditional flavours or "birthday cake"), syrup or custard and "bits and bobs" (marshmallow, fudge, cinder toffee and more) and finally the toppings (including popping candy and candied pecan crumb). You can also choose from some ready-chosen selections if you are decision-averse. Once you have your creation chosen, ideally head over to the station to see it being created.
Head over here to watch your creation being made. Note that the Knickerbocker station is on wheels but a little too big to get around all the tables - so you'll have to go to it.
And here's our creation, which is custard, birthday cake and raspberry ripple ice creams, fudge pieces, cinder toffee and topped with candied pecan crumb (£18).
And if all that's just too much work, there is also a more traditional dessert menu including a Grand Marnier souffle, a lemongrass creme caramel and this excellent option:
The Original Beans chocolate & hazelnut opera (£14). That's layers of chocolate ganache, hazelnut, and Jaconde sponge finished with vanilla ice cream and dark chocolate - surely someone in the pastry team had a ruler out when creating a dessert so perfect?
What about drinks?
There's a selection of cocktails in Dovetale that are different from those in Dover Yard (including no alcohol versions) but we think you're really going to want to take a look at the rather massive wine list on offer here.
Overall thoughts
Dovetale is another clear winner for Tom Sellers. It's all very glamorous-looking and there are some truly excellent dishes on the menu, with that carpaccio being a star dish. And as great as the start is, with a pretty stellar team in the kitchen, we can see this restaurant only getting better over time. Given that the hotel has an excellent bar too, this will definitely be Mayfair's next big hit.
More about Dovetale
Where is it? 1 Dover Yard at 1 Hotel Mayfair, London W1J 8DJ
How to book: Call 020 3137 4983 or book online.
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @dovetalelondon.
Hot Dinners ate as guests of Dovetale. Prices are correct at the time of writing.
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