Looking into the dining room at Dove, which is pretty similar to Orasay
So what exactly is the deal with Dove? Is it really a new restaurant?
If you were already a fan or regular of Jackson Boxer's Orasay in Notting Hill, you might wander into Dove this week and think that nothing much had changed. But that's just the decor we're talking about. The look might have remained the same and Jackson might still be running the kitchen here, but the name, the menu and the wine offering are all completely new.
Where is it?
You'll find it in the heart of Notting Hill on Kensington Park Road. The nearest tube is Ladbroke Grove.
Where's a good place to meet for a drink first?
If it's wine you're after then Franklin's Wine is barely a five-minute walk away. Otherwise we're fans of The Elgin, which is always a friendly spot for a pint nearby.
If the menu's new, what's changed exactly?
Jackson's been quoted as saying the menu represents what he wants to cook and eat right now - the previous focus of Orasay on expensive seafood proving unsustainable given today's restaurant economics. But he elaborated on that a little more on the night we were in. He says that when he eats out he wants to read a menu with dishes that people love but can't be faffed to cook at home - elaborate sauces that take four days to make, beautiful but complicated desserts, that sort of thing.
So with that in mind, here's what we had, to give you an idea of what's on offer:
Representing our first break in Dry January, we made it count with a dirty martini made with Sapling vodka and a Honey Margarita (both £12).
Red Prawn, lardo and yuzu on a potato cake (£5 each) - One of those layered with flavour snacks that sets out the kitchen's stall.
Deep fried Taleggio & Wiltshire truffle lasagna (£7 for two) - Did these mini squares of carby delights disappoint? They did not. We'd have had a load more of these if we could.
Hake, pumpkin, champagne (£27) - Although the menu has changed completely, Dove will still have the odd seafood dish. In this, the Champagne sauce is wonderfully rich and just the sort of thing you want someone to create in a restaurant for you rather than attempt it yourself.
Grilled bavette steak, smoked bone marrow & morels (£29) - Obviously, the steak was perfectly cooked but it's the sauce, studded with cubes of wobbly marrow that really won us over.
What's on the menu for those looking for plant-led dishes?
In addition to those amazing fried lasagne squares, there were several options including a starter of whipped fava with braised chicoria and Szechuan crumb along with this gorgeous dish;
Black tomatoes, sour cream, chilli crisp (£7) - we can't think of a better way to get your vitamin C in the depths of winter than this dish.
Room for dessert?
Plan for leaving room because we had two of the three dessert options (the third was a cheese plate) and they were both top-tier.
Chocolate cake, quince, sour cream (£10) - A surprisingly light cake that's elevated by placing it on a thin layer of quince jelly. That also helps add real flavour to the creme fraiche.
Coffee cardamom caramel cream (£8) - While we love the classic creme caramel that's currently on loads of menus across town, this coffee and cardamon twist was a revelation.
What's on the wine list?
The list has been given a hard prune from before. But they say that there will be the "odd eccentric, rare or fine bottle" offering as a weekly pour-by-the-glass selection.
Sommelier Benedict has been with Orasay/Dove for a while now and didn't look ruffled at all by our request for a bottle that would take us through the meal and go with both the hake and the steak. A 2020 Pinot Noir from Domaine Henri Prudhon in Saint Aubin (£79) did the trick. The list itself is a tight one with about eight or nine options for red and white and a few in the sparkling/orange categories. Prices start at very-good-for-London £33 for the house red and white (both from Italy) and go up to £90 for a Pauillac from Lacoste-Borie.
Overall thoughts:
If this is the direction that London's restaurants are going in - moving to slightly more casual but innovative and interesting take, then sign us up. We could happily have worked our way through the entire menu at Dove which, if we were locals, we'd be able to pop back and do. Dove is a clever pivot for a good restaurant and is worthy of your attention.
More about Dove
Where is it? 31 Kensington Park Road, London W11 2EU
Find out more: On their website or follow Dove on Instagram for more info @i.feel.dove
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