The newly designed dining room. Just out of the shot on the left are mirrors on the wall which do wonders for the space. It's now embracing the hotel's art-deco style instead of trying to hide it (the skylights in the ceiling was covered up in its last iteration).
What do we need to know about Claridge's Restaurant?
Where do we start? This is the fourth iteration of the hotel's restaurant this millennium. As a potted history, the first and best known was Gordon Ramsay who ran the restaurant from 2001 to 2013 during which period it won and lost a Michelin star. In 2014 Simon Rogan (L'Enclume) took it over and opened it as Fera, regaining the star. He was followed in the space by New York chef Daniel Humm who ran it as Davies and Brook for just two years until the end of 2021. Since then it's remained closed... until now.
The new restaurant sees a return to its name from pre-Gordon days as Claridge's Restaurant. Things will be slow and steady for a while - they won't be filling the restaurant yet as they get to grips with the new space, slowly ramping things up and aiming to have it fully up and running by September.
Taking over the kitchen is Irish chef Coalin Finn who worked here at Davies and Brook and has also been at Sketch and Inverlochy Castle.
And there's a new look too?
Absolutely, the room has also had a big makeover, more befitting this glorious Art Deco establishment than the all-beige interiors of its previous occupant. It's always been a big and somewhat tricky room, but this latest refit seems to suit the hotel very well.
Another look at the new room.
Where is it?
I feel we hardly need to remind you where Claridge's is, but if it's been a while since you were last there, you'll find the Grande Dame hotel on the corner of Brook Street and Davies Street in the heart of Mayfair - the nearest tube is Bond Street. The restaurant is off the lobby to the right (there's also a direct entrance on Davies Street).
Where's a good place to meet for a drink first?
In the hotel alone you have four bars, including a rather lovely little one in the restaurant itself serving up seasonal takes on classic cocktails like the Melon Manhatten or Cherry Old Fashioned. The main Claridge's Bar is also a London classic and if you haven't been, you may want to earmark some time for a quick martini in there too.
If you'd prefer to meet outside the hotel, the Brooks Mews Wine House behind the hotel is an easy recommendation.
The small, but perfectly formed, restaurant bar
Where should we be sitting?
The room is still divided into two levels, the main dining room and then a raised seating area with lovely window views into Davies Street. Our pick would be to bring a group and grab one of the banquette tables in the centre of the room with a good view of proceedings.
What's on the menu?
They describe the offering as "classically inspired dishes, enhanced with modern twists". It certainly is a much more classic menu than both Fera and Davies and Brook before it and, at first glance we had the feeling that the menu could be playing it a bit safe. However, everything is translated into something pretty special on the plate. Put simply, it's the kind of menu that we think will go down very well with the hotel guests and may well poach a few of the nearby Wolseley's clientele in the process.
We went for a preview lunch and tried most of what's on the menu. Here's our pick of the highlights.
Buckwheat crumpet with Soubise cream and a generous shaving of truffle (£12)
Barbequed radish skewers with fresh horseradish and teriyaki (£10) - a truly memorable vegan starter
A great tomato dish is always to be celebrated - Nutbourne tomatoes with Stracciatella and green tomato vinaigrette (£16)
Claridge’s fruits de mer for two with oysters, lobster, langoustine, crab, clams, mussels and scallop (£90). Basically all the bits you actually like on a fruits de mer but made easy - so the crab's served in little lettuce shells, the lobster's been deshelled, sliced and topped with caviar and there's lovely radish mignonette to go with the oysters.
A completely shelled grilled native lobster with Jersey Royals and an obsenely rich (and divine) sauce Americaine (£68)
Stuffed lamb saddle with peas, broad beans and morel mushrooms (£42)
Room for dessert?
The food here is rich, so you'll need to order cunningly to make it this far. We'd certainly like to return to have a go at the cherry and almond Baked Alaska (£30 to share). We tried a variety of desserts with these two being our biggest hits.
Raspberry vacherin with nasturtium (£16)
Chocolate soufflé tart with cocoa nib ice cream on the side (£16)
What about the wine?
This is Mayfair so there's a tiny handful of wines under the £50 mark and most edging into the £100+ territory. If you're opting for wines by the glass you can have a glass of Provencal rosé for £14 or one of Chassagne-Montrachet for £70. There's also a special section called the Sommelier Spotlight which covers mainly old-world territory.
Overall thoughts:
It's certainly interesting that when many of London's top-tier hotels are opting, as Claridge's has previously done, for big-name chefs to run their main restaurants that this hotel has reverted to a more traditional model.
In Coalin they've found a chef who can translate what makes Claridge's special into restaurant form. The menu is certainly befitting one of London's most luxurious hotels and with even the breakfast offering sounding like a big deal, we think this iteration will be just the thing that suits Claridge's and its guests down to the ground.
More about Claridge's Restaurant
Where is it? Brook Street, London W1K 4HR
When does it open? Open now for breakfast every day and lunch and dinner from Wednesday through to Saturday.
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @claridgeshotel
Hot Dinners dined as guests of Claridge's. Prices correct at time of publication.
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