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Test Driving Café François - a new Borough Market spot that's perfect for popping by or lingering in

This is what you're looking for on Stoney Street.

Is this place related to Maison Francois?

It is! Café François is the sibling restaurant to the St James brasserie. They're calling it a French canteen, but if you're a fan of Parisian cafes you'll know what the major influence is here. That said, as well as French classics, they're also "embracing global influences and flavours" which is why you'll find a banh mi alongside a grilled cheese sandwich and a quiche du jour on the menu.

If you've been to Maison Francois, the big difference is that Café François is much more of a casual affair. By day the bar is run as a bakery/deli and in the evening the whole place is a fun, busy spot that doesn't take itself too seriously.

Where is it?

They've taken over the old Paul Smith shop in Borough Yards. It's a great spot for a restaurant on the corner of Stoney Street as it turns into Borough Yards. The nearest station therefore would be London Bridge (although Borough tube isn't far either).

Where's a good place to meet friends for a drink first.

We used nearby Bedales wine bar for a meet-up but there's also a bar space here as you go in that would be a handy meeting place and a good starting point to try their cocktails.

cafe francois borough market reviewLeft to right: Cant'elope Gimlet (£12) and a Freezer martini (£11) made with either Hepple gin or X Muse vodka. Both are well made and keenly price for London.

Where should we sit?

Good question, as it's a pretty huge restaurant. There are two floors, and in the evening the top floor is probably more suited to couples while the lighter, brighter downstairs room is a good place for groups. There's also another section upstairs overlooking the market which can be taken over for private events. There's also a large terrace outside for alfresco dining.

cafe francois borough market reviewThe upstairs dining room

So what's on the menu?

If you're here for lunch or dinner, you're going off the all-day menu (there's a separate breakfast and brunch offering). That's split into bread/flatbreads, hors d'oeuvres, sandwiches, rotisseries, mains and sharing dishes.

We had a pretty good go through most elements on the menu on our visit, so here are a few examples to give you an idea:

cafe francois borough market reviewLamb merguez flatbread (£9) - flatbreads were a thing at Maison Francois and this spicy version is new to Cafe Francois. There's also a Croque Monsieur version that's new too.

cafe francois borough market reviewPâté en croûte, charcuterie, salade verte (£15) - this and a glass of wine would be a great choice for a quick lunch.

cafe francois borough market reviewCrispy frog’s legs, sauce ravigote (£12)

cafe francois borough market reviewFoie gras, bacon and egg muffin à la Joe Beef - an instant must-try sandwich (if you're OK with foie) this is a gloriously messy, rich confection that'll fur up your arteries in the most pleasurable way possible.

cafe francois borough market reviewPrime rib, bone marrow, escargots, frites, béarnaise - the sharing dish, or meal deal, for two is £55 or you can get this as a solo dish without the fries or sauce for £20. Can't tell you how beautifully cooked and tender that steak was.

What's on the menu for vegetarians?

We couldn't come here without trying this old favourite from Maison Francois. There's also a separate vegetables and salad section and a quiche du jour that's veggie too.

cafe francois borough market reviewComté gougères (£5.5) - the OG snack from Maison Francois is on the menu here as well.

Room for dessert?

Having gone slightly mad in the savoury section of the menu we found ourselves incapable of giving the dessert menu a thorough going-over. To see what's on offer there's a patisserie counter in the ground floor dining room you can take a look at first.

We ended up with one of their eclairs to share; there are four to choose from.

cafe francois borough market reviewPistachio eclair (£6.50) - beautiful to look at and thankfully light as a feather to eat.

What about the drinks list?

Wine Director Daniel Illsley is behind the list here and will be splitting his time between both restaurants. You're as likely to encounter an English Pet Nat as you are a glass of organic Chablis. For us, his recommendation of a chilled red, a Cafe Francois Clairet, was the biggest hit of the night. There's plenty by the glass (small and large) alongside carafes and bottles as well as a range of branded Cafe Francois wines made for them by biodynamic winemakers Franck and Véronique Terral.

Overall thoughts

Five minutes inside Café François and you're left in no doubt that this is going to be one of the huge hits of the year in London.

It is, very cleverly, offering something that Borough Market doesn't really have at the moment - an easy mid-range cafe/brasserie. As such it'll do well with both Londoners and tourists. But that aside, the perfectly pitched menu, friendly and precise service and gorgeous interiors are really what are going to make this your new favourite hangout at the market.

 

More about Cafe Francois

Where is it? 14-16 Stoney Street, London SE1 9AD

Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @cafefrancoislondon

Hot Dinners dined as guests of Cafe Francois. Prices correct at time of publication.

 

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