A view into the restaurant from the counter
What's the story here?
Given the fast turnaround of the London restaurant scene, it's always good to celebrate those restaurants that make it to milestone birthdays. Last year Jacob Kenedy's Soho stalwart Bocca di Lupo turned 15 and is still as busy as ever. We thought it high time to make a return visit to see what exactly it's doing right.
What kind of place is it?
When this trattoria first opened its doors back in 2008 on a Soho side street, critics were enamoured by its small plates menu that traversed Italy for influence and inspiration. It was also part of a newish movement of counter dining restaurants in London, with its large marble counter being the first thing you saw when you arrived.
The chef patron, Jacob Kenedy, previously worked at Moro and, from a quick look at his biography, appears to be one of those irritatingly Renaissance men who are preternaturally gifted at everything from science to music and glassblowing (we're seriously not making this up).
Where should we sit?
The answer to this question lies in the size of your party. If you're dining solo or there are just two of you, then hands-down the counter is the place to be. If you're in a larger group, then the more formal dining room at the rear is going to be the better bet.
The dining room at the rear of the restaurant
And what about the food?
The restaurant changes its menu twice a day, that's how in season the food is. Expect to find a menu that covers everything from fried snacks to crudo and pasta along with larger dishes divided into Oven & Grill and Pot & Pan. Almost everything comes in two sizes so whether you're the kind of diner who prefers to pick at several dishes, or would opt for an old-school, three-course meal you can devise a menu to suit yourself.
Here's what we had to give you a flavour of what to expect:
Olive stuffed with minced pork and veal (£3.50) - if there's a better bar snack we've yet to come across it.
Tirtlen - fried ravioli of greens & herbs (£9 - small portion)
Amberjack carpaccio, rosemary & blood orange (£16 - small portion). When looking for the blood orange on the menu, the attributed location was "Heaven".
Ossobuco 'in bianco' with risotto Milanese (£76 for two to three people) - a dish so good we're still thinking about it over a week later with a deep flavour to both the rice and the veal.
Truffles are a big thing here, aren't they?
They really are. You can bring your own in and have it shaved over any dish you like, or pay for either a small or large portion to be added to certain dishes which are marked up on the menu with a T.
Tortellini in cream & nutmeg (£14 - small portion, with an additional 5g of fresh black truffle shaved over it for an additional £29).
Room for dessert?
For dessert, you have a number of options.
If you're usually a dessert-avoider you could always go straight to the Caffee Zuccherato part of the menu for a range of sweetened coffees with everything from beaten egg yolk to hot chocolate and Campari added. But desserts are definitely worth saving room for.
Sicilian cannoli - stuffed with sheep ricotta, chocolate & pistachio (£6) - about as good a cannoli as you'll find anywhere in London
What about drinks?
The wine list here is, as you might imagine, all-Italian with bottles starting as low as £29 for a Fiano from Puglia and rising to just north of £1k for a magnum of Super Tuscan Sassicaia. Our bottle of Aglianico del Vulture 'Barilliott' (£46) carried us perfectly through our meal and is also available by the glass. As for cocktails, if you like a negroni, you can't leave without ordering one here, from classic to Sbagliato as well as the following:
A twist on the classic Negroni, this is a Sakura Negroni, featuring Mancino sakura, vermouth, genepi and gin (£13). Their Sbagliato is also excellent.
Overall thoughts:
That Bocca di Lupo is still jam-packed on a weekday evening at the end of Dry January is very much a testament to what a slick but enjoyable operation this is. Managing that 15 years after opening its doors for the first time and still being relevant and interesting in today's restaurant scene is no small feat. If you haven't been, it's a must-visit at least once, but it's also a restaurant that bears up on repeat visits - a true Soho classic.
More about Bocca di Lupo
Where is it? 12 Archer St, London W1D 7BB
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @bocca_di_lupo
Hot Dinners dined as guests of Bocca di Lupo. Prices are correct at the time of publication.
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