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Test Driving Blacklock Covent Garden - new dishes and old favourites keep the formula fresh

roomThe main dining room in the new Blacklock Covent Garden. There's more off to the left too, including some semi-private-dining spaces.

What do we need to know about this new Blacklock?

Let's start with the basics first. If you haven't been to a Blacklock before (which surely means you've only just arrived in London) then you should know that this boutique restaurant group made its name by serving up superlative steak and chops at a price that wouldn't leave you in penury. The menu is tight, there are well-priced cocktails and their restaurants - usually down in a basement somewhere - are always a place to have a good time. 

This new opening is their fourth London restaurant - and there are a few new additions.

It's in Covent Garden presumably?

Although the address is Bedford Street, you'll actually see the entrance tucked down Bedford Court.

As per most Blacklocks, this is a basement restaurant and once you're down the stairs, you'll find yourself in the group's largest restaurant to date. There's a semi-private dining space, some very cute little booths for two and a large dining room leading on to an open kitchen.

Apparently, a large part of this lovely Mad Men-style space used to be a storage space for offices - we much prefer this kind of usage.

Where should we meet for a drink first?

As long as your group isn't too big, you could always start with a cocktail at the little bar that's the first thing you see as you come down the stairs here. There are four stools there or you could grab the area to the left of the entrance with room for three on its 50s sofa and chair. Alternatively, we'd also recommend Lady of the Grapes wine bar, around the corner on Maiden Lane. 

roomA 'Stiff Neck'  (£7) - vodka, Tio Pepe, pear and earl grey. Just the thing if you usually order martinis.

I'm a big Blacklock fan - is there anything new on the menu here?

There certainly is - several new dishes in fact. There are new cuts of steak - Denver and Sixth Ribeye, Blacklock's first pie and several new options for the end of the meal.

Here's what we had:

blacklock covent garden restaurant reviewPre-chop bites - it's always a good idea to get some of these to enjoy with your pre-prandial cocktail. We opted for the chicken and horseradish (three for £3) but there's also egg & anchovy and cheese & pickle to choose from.

blacklock covent garden restaurant reviewCull yaw crumpet (£7) - slow roast shoulder and leg of lamb piled onto a crumpet with added gravy.

blacklock covent garden restaurant reviewPigs head on toast (£6) - studded with chilli for an additional, pleasing kick. And more gravy, of course. You can never have enough Blacklock gravy. 

blacklock covent garden restaurant reviewSkinny chops (£4.50 each) - there's always a good variety of lamb, pork and beef chops on offer. Piled here are lamb t-bone, pork loin and pork belly.

blacklock covent garden restaurant reviewPorterhouse steak - all the Blacklock steaks are dry-aged up to 55 days. On the menu, you'll find rump fillet and cap and the new Denver and Sixth Rib Eye. But on the board, you'll also find larger cuts that are great for sharing like this.

blacklock covent garden restaurant reviewStar dish: the steak and stilton pie (£16) - an absolute belter of a pie, made with beef, bone marrow and Colston Basset blue cheese and encased in the crumbliest suet pastry. Even better with extra gravy, of course. 

Room for dessert?

If you've managed not to over order before now, there are two new dishes to try at this stage - a classic bread and butter pudding with bourbon and a Welsh rarebit made with Coombeshead sourdough and Montgomery cheddar.

blacklock covent garden restaurant reviewWe couldn't, however, resist the classic Blacklock dessert of white chocolate cheesecake (£6 for a massive portion).

And to finish?

The cocktail trolley, where they wheel it over and make an Old Fashioned or a Negroni, is a must.

blacklock covent garden restaurant reviewIt wouldn't be a proper visit to Blacklock without calling over the cocktail trolley.

Overall thoughts:

Blacklock's fan base is as large and fanatical as Hawksmoor's - the soft launch for this new restaurant sold out in just three minutes. And coming here, you realise why. There's a real attention to detail from the design through to the playlist and it also pays respect to the meat on the menu - every part of the animals are used. We visited on day 2 of the full opening and already service was completely on point, despite the restaurant being packed. A slick operation indeed.

Hot Dinners dined as guests of Blacklock. Prices are correct at the time of publication.

 

More about Blacklock

Where is it? 16a Bedford Street, London WC2E 9HE

Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @blacklockchops

Book Blacklock Covent Garden

 

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