What can you tell me about Bibigo?
Bibigo has 13 branches of healthy fast food joints across its motherland, Korea, and six overseas restaurants in locations including LA, Beverly Hills, Beijing, Singapore and now London.
CJ Foodville (owner of various other chains across the world including VIPS Steak & Salad Restaurants and Seafood Ocean) is planning a rapid expansion to over 1,000 international locations by 2015. Having only launched the franchise in 2010 it’s a pretty confident strategy.
Where is it?
Split over two levels on Great Marlborough Street in London, the glass-fronted space is just a hop, skip and a jump from Liberty and all the shops on Kingly Street.
The restaurant can seat 86 over the two floors and a bar in the window has space for eight. When we were there, people were eating at the bar although we forgot to ask if they were saved for walk-ins.
The decor isn’t really saying much - it’s a mix of reds, greens, concrete and wood. There is little personality in the room, perhaps to concentrate the focus on the food. On the way in, there is a shelf with Bibigo branded products and their cook book, reminding the uninitiated that this place is home to an already established brand.
Who's it suitable for?
It describes itself as "an innovative concoction of the traditional and nouveau", with an emphasis on high quality ingredients, affordable prices and healthy eating. Those who are familiar with the brand may be a little confused by this restaurant as it is known overseas as an express lunch/take out kind of place. The move to position itself as a mid-market restaurant may change the kind of clientele they bring in.
The range of food and the informal space should allow for families and couples alike. Big groups benefit from being able to try a lot of what’s on offer.
Where should we meet for a drink first?
You’re in the heart of Soho so you’re surrounded by great places. We stopped by the packed Sun & 13 Cantons on Beak Street for a swift half of Honey Dew organic beer, but if you’d rather somewhere that you can nab a seat Graphic (Golden Square) is pretty mellow early doors and as they have the UK's most extensive gin collection (more than 130 different brands), so it would be rude not to order some of the weepy juice.
And where should we sit?
On the first floor, the glass walled kitchen means you can catch all the action as it happens. Table-wise it’s much of a muchness, although larger groups do get the green leather banquette-style seats which were pretty comfy and ensure you get to face out into the restaurant.
What should we order?
Even if you’re not overly familiar with Korean food, there’s no need to feel like a fish out of water - each section of the menu explains the dish and its provenance clearly. All the staff seemed very informative too, letting us know how different dishes were cooked and also advising on how much to order.
The menu seems to be split in a starter/main course formula but we were told all dishes could be shared, so we opted for a big mixture of everything. We started with the beef tartare (£11) accompanied with raw pear and poached egg yolk, hand cut and served at room temperature. It was as good, if not better, than its French competitor - a good start.
Next were scallops with samphire and pollock roe (£12) - with the scallops seared so perfectly we didn’t want to share. We ordered the not-so-healthy tempura squid which came with little pieces of tempura okra and also a lightly battered chicken (that, alas, we can’t remember the full name of). Both dishes were light and not at all greasy.
Other dishes included dumplings (slightly bland, they needed vinegar), three types of kimchee (when in Rome) and grilled beef short ribs marinaded in the restaurant’s own Bibigo BBQ sauce. At £20 for the dish, we were slightly disappointed with the portion size – we managed to get 1-2 per person at a table of 5.
Bibimbap – literally meaning mixed rice or mixed meal – is a staple Korean dish, and can be ordered here per person or for a larger group, with a variety of sauces and toppings.
And what about drinks?
We got a bit of a shock that the wine started at £24 a bottle, and a single vodka without mixer will set you back a whopping £7. Most tables were drinking beer or sake, so perhaps we should have gone for that option.
And how much will this set me back?
The bill came to £42 a head (including a 20% discount for opening week) without dessert, and we hadn’t gone crazy on the food or excessive on the booze. This could quite easily creep up to £50 and for a place (and country) that traditionally prides itself on its good, yet inexpensive cuisine this felt pretty pricey. Saying that, we’d return just for a plate of those scallops.
Overall thoughts?
Well-located with informative staff and some great one-off dishes, we could see ourselves popping in after a long day shopping for a plate or two. Its basic decor jars slightly with its price-point and overall reputation and selling pre-packaged sauces at the front feels kind of naff, but the quality of the food could not be faulted. There are cheaper Korean restaurants in London but there are few that do new takes on traditional Korean dishes. Although you might think you've paid over the odds for its name and prime location, you will leave with a feeling that it was probably worth it.
Bibigo, 55-58 Great Malborough Street, London, W1F 7JY
Prices were correct at time of writing.
