A view from the private dining room down into the main space at Belvedere
What do we need to know about Belvedere?
This gorgeous-looking restaurant in the middle of Holland Park has a new chef on board and he's an interesting one. Previously, Lello Favuzzi was first head chef and then executive chef at the much-missed L'Anima before he took on the kitchen at Mortimer House. Now he's been brought in to oversee the Italian and Mediterranean menu here at Belvedere.
The place looks amazing - what's the history?
Belvedere has had many millions lavished on it recently, including a change of interior colour to make it more Tuscan rustic and welcoming. You wouldn't guess that back in the day it was originally built by legendary architect Inigo Jones (who designed much of Greenwich, Mansion House and Covent Garden's piazza) and Isaac de Causas as a coach house and stables. At that time it was the most expensive stable in the country - the 17th century equivalent of a modern billionaire's Ferrari garage.
After that, it became a ballroom and orangery and, unlike the house it was built for, it survived the Blitz and became a restaurant. The current owners are George Bukhov-Weinstein and Ilya Demichev who are the duo behind Goodman, Burger & Lobster and Wild Tavern.
Where should we sit?
A great table is the one right beside the open fire in the main dining room. But there are various other sections to the restaurant including two spaces upstairs which are great for private parties and a large balcony that overlooks the park and is the place to be in the warmer months.
That table for two by the fireplace at the back is a lovely spot.
So what's on the menu?
Given its well-heeled West London clientele, there's nothing here to frighten the horses (forgive the pun). It's one of those menus that reads really well from the extensive raw section through to pasta and larger mains. But what isn't given away in the plain descriptions is that almost every dish will be more interesting and intricate than you'd expect.
Here's what we had to give you a taste. The pasta and main seafood dishes you see below are half portions, split so we could try more of the menu:
Black fig salad with mustia ricotta (£18) - that smoked ricotta turned this into a super salad.
Langoustine carpaccio with ponzu dressing (£28)
Veal tonnato (£22) - a different presentation take on the usual tonnato.
Spaghetti alla Chitarra with Cornish crab (£34) - other posh Italians might have a really muted pasta with crab dish on the menu, but this has all the flavour of both the brown and white crab in it.
Wild seabass fillet with romanesco and lovage sauce (£48) - a great piece of fish given due respect by the kitchen.
Room for dessert?
Whether you're here for a long lunch or a late-night dinner, the Dolci section at Belvedere certainly needs paying attention to.
Blueberry and almond tart (£12)
Tiramisu with sanded hazelnuts coated in sugar and coffee (£10)
And what about drinks?
The drinks offering is particularly strong here at Belvedere. Head Sommelier Joseph Pelosi used to have a wine import business (he was previously at Bowling Bird in Smithfield) and can be relied upon to find you something interesting on the list. In our case that turned out to be a 2020 Sorrentino, Catalo Catalanesca that perfectly matched our request for something volcanic.
He's ably supported at the bar by Jake Coventry who also owns Londinio Liqueurs, a London-based vermouth maker. With that in mind, his take on the martini, made with Gin Mare, white vermouth, fino sherry, olive brine and pine is worth any martini lover crossing town for.
Left to right - The Belvedere Spritz made with their own aperitivo blend with sparkling Soave, blood orange and peach sode and pitch-perfect Martini (both £16).
Overall thoughts:
Looking the way it does and located in the part of London it is, Belvedere could so easily have been a rich person's dining room with a bland menu to match. But with Lello in the kitchen and a strong team supporting him, including impeccable front-of-house staff, it's worth any foodie's attention too. A walk through the nearby Kyoto Gardens followed by a martini and plate of pasta here would be a five-star day in anyone's books.
More about Belvedere
Where is it? Off Abbotsbury Road Holland Park, London W8 6LU
How to book: book online here
Find out more: Follow them on Instagram @belvedere_holland_park
Hot Dinners dined as guests of Belvedere. Prices correct at time of publication.
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