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Test Driving The Barley Mow - a Mayfair pub reborn

barley mow pub mayfair london reviewA few steps from Oxford Street will lead you to the doors of The Barley Mow.

So what do we need to know about The Barley Mow?

Over the years, you've probably passed by this Mayfair pub without so much as a sideways glance. But this year, the pub was bought by The Cubitt Group who, most recently, reopened The Princess Royal in Notting Hill as part of their partnership with chef Ben Tish.

Tish is once more on board with the menu development and as a pub geekery sidenote the pub's General Manager is Lara Rogers who trained up under her dad Oisin Rogers at the nearby Guinea Grill.

Where is it?

Right in the heart of Mayfair - you'll find it on Duke Street (the section between Grosvenor Square and Oxford Street), on the corner of Brown Hart Gardens. The nearest tube would be Bond Street.

Where's a good place to meet for a drink first?

The obvious answer is downstairs in the pub. There are some very comfy leather stools facing out over Duke Street along with a covetable snug at the back. Here you could settle in with a pint and a hot beef roll. And, because this is Mayfair, the pub's wine list also includes St-Emilion Grand Cru by the glass.

Where should we sit?

Although you can order pub snacks downstairs, what you really want is a table booked in the upstairs dining room - a lovely space, divided into two rooms. It's a very clubby-style affair that's perfect for dining a deux or with larger groups.

What's on the menu?

According to Ben, the menu here "take its inspiration from Britain with a little bit of France." There's also a hint of theatricality in the service too, with a cheese station to hand and several desserts finished off at the table.

Here's what we had to give you an idea:

barley mow pub mayfair london reviewHaggis Scotch egg with whisky mayonnaise (£10) -  given that GM Lara's dad Oisin runs the Scotch Egg Challenge, you can safely assume this is going to be an entry into next year's competition.

barley mow pub mayfair london reviewBrown crab rarebit (£13) - a super savoury course, ideal as a bar snack or a sharing starter.

barley mow pub mayfair london reviewHouse terrine en croûte with a shallot & beetroot chutney (£15) - London's en croute game is on fire at the moment and this is a very good addition.

barley mow pub mayfair london reviewDover Sole on the bone with a Champagne & muscat grape sauce - market priced according to weight 

barley mow pub mayfair london reviewFree-range chicken with a sage & truffle butter (£25) - a proper roast chicken dish with a deep truffle buttery sauce.

There's also a carvery isn't there?

The weekday menu features a daily choice of roast rare breeds meat. It's carved at the counter in the dining room and silver served at the table.

barley mow pub mayfair london reviewOn the night we visited the option was roast beef, served with a choice of carbs - Gratin Dauphinoise, House Fries or Westcombe Curd Aligot - along with Seasonal Greens & Madeira Gravy (£36)

What's on offer for vegetarians?

Each menu section has a veggie option from the baked squash with spelt, sage and Ticklemore salad to start to the Roasted celeriac with beetroot and lentil cottage pie.

Room for dessert?

100% when the pudding menu contains such classics as Crepe Suzette, Poire Belle Helene and a selection of cheeses from Neals Yard Diary.

barley mow pub mayfair london reviewThe baked alaska (£20) was billed as enough for two, but actually was more than enough for our table of three. It comes doused in rum before being set on fire at the table.

What's on the wine list?

Given the pub's location, there are plenty of spendy options on it from a bottle of Krug at £400 to a Magnum of Barolo at £350. But there are also several sub-£30 options on there too from Le Petit Oiseau.

Overall thoughts?

We're always pro anyone breathing new life into London's pubs and the revamp of this Mayfair spot has been very nicely done indeed. Downstairs is still very much a pub, albeit with vastly more stylish decor and seating than before, and the upstairs dining room is a really gorgeous addition to the London restaurant scene.

 

More about The Barley Mow

Where is it? 82 Duke Street, London W1K 6JG

Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @thebarleymowmayfair

Hot Dinners dined as guests of The Barley Mow. Prices correct at time of publication.

 

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