The main room at Alex Dilling, looking out onto Regent Street. Note the reflective (not mirrored) ceiling.
What can you tell us about Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal?
Hotel Café Royal has been searching for a proper destination restaurant for a while now. While they've had relative success with Albert Adria's Cakes and Bubbles, the main restaurant has always been found a little wanting, with the Laurent Tourandel restaurant being the latest that failed to capture Londoners' imagination.
However, that's all just changed. Ex-Greenhouse chef Alex Dilling has come in to deliver exactly what the hotel needs - a destination fine dining restaurant with a great pedigree behind it. Focusing on established London-based talent Alex Dilling is a big plus as it feels like the restaurant has really created something bespoke for the hotel.
Where is it?
If you've never been to the Hotel Café Royal, you'll find it almost next to Piccadilly Station tube, right at the end of Regent Street. It's been in place for 150 years and really is one of London's most prestigious hotels (it's well worth popping in for a quick nose around the lobby).
You'll find Alex Dilling on the first floor but here's where things change from the previous layout. Dilling has only taken over a relatively small room that looks out over Regent Street, whereas the previous restaurant also ran the length of the extensive space with a gallery onto the main hotel lobby.
There are two big positives here. Firstly, with only 34 seats per sitting, they can concentrate on a proper fine dining affair. And secondly, that main room is flooded with light from Regent Street so pretty much any of the tables is a winner. The only thing we would like to see is some mirrors on the wall opposite so that all the diners can take in that view.
On the way into the restaurant, you'll pass by this wine wall. But take a closer look and you'll see the kitchen right behind it.
What kind of food can we expect?
We're firmly in fine dining territory here, but even with that in mind there's a welcomingly relaxed touch to the service. The food, billed as contemporary French food, is quite extraordinary. Right from the canapes, it's clear that they have something special here.
And it's tasting menu-only?
Yes, and of those, there are three to choose from. During the day on Thursday or Friday, there's a three-course tasting menu for £65. That's the entry-level point if you're looking to try it out one lunchtime. Otherwise, there's a choice of two seven-course menus at £155 or £195. That's available for lunch on Saturday or dinner Tuesday - Saturday.
We had dishes from all of the three menus. And much as some of these look like studio shots (the lighting was very flattering), they're actually what was put out in front of us on the day. It's all very impressive.
The canapes kick things off in great style
Brown crab - Chartreuse - lemon verbena
We love good, proper salted butter and this is exactly what this delivers. We covet the butter dish too.
Cornish Sardine - Buttermilk, Cuttlefish, Vinaigrette "Perlé" - a work of art in its presentation
Line Caught Brill - Jig Squid, Coco de Paimpol, Basque Chorizo - a zebra striked dish of perfectly cooked fish.
Pâte de Campagne - Boudin Noir, Iberico Ham, Andignac Foie Gras - the foie gras is a parfait inside the glittery ball
Herdwick Lamb Saddle with Cep, Green Olive - the first time we've personally come across this fancy (and classic) way of presenting the lamb bone - a "Manches à Cotelette"
Hazelnut From Jura - Vanilla, Brandy Sabayon - an absolute barnstormer of a dessert.
And finishing off with equally stylish petit fours.
Overall thoughts
Alex Dilling delivers exactly what the Hotel Café Royal needed - a proper destination restaurant with spectacular food. Dilling has raised his game and then some with a truly great fine dining experience. We'd say it's literally just a matter of time until this restaurant earns its first Michelin star.
More about Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal
Where is it? 68 Regent St, Soho, London W1B 4DY
How to book: Book online
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @alexdillingcaferoyal
Hot Dinners ate as guests of Alex Dilling at the Hotel Cafe Royal. Prices are correct at the time of writing.
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