Have you ever arrived back from enjoying the delightful boulangeries and charcuteries of France, only to be greeted in Gatwick by the depressing smell of “abattoir slurry” that, according to food critic Jonathan Meades, is the trademark of a mass-produced Cornish Pasty? For people like Meades, returning to England from a country which boasts cuisine that sets the bench mark for fine dining only reinforces the notion that England doesn’t stand a chance – or does it?
‘This house believes French cuisine is a spent force’ was the topic on the table that four prominent food critics chewed over during The Big Debate - one of the key events in the 2010 London Restaurant Festival’s calendar. Before sitting down, while nibbling French and English canapés, the audience were asked to submit a preliminary ballot noting which side of the debate they leant towards
On the left, and in favour of the motion was Rosie Boycott, former editor of the Independent and recently made chairperson of London Food, alongside the ever-entertaining Janet Street Porter. Meanwhile, in defence of French cuisine was ubiquitous food critic and journalist AA Gill, as well as novelist, former food commentator and Bordeaux resident Jonathan Meades.
Rosie got straight to the point: “French Food, RIP.” French food has given up, she said, likening it to the elevators at the Eiffel Tower - only kept running for tourists, while Janet Street-Porter took particular offence to French restaurant decor. The quaint idea of the idyllic Parisian food market no longer came close to expectations, they argued, while shortages of vegetables ran rife in French supermarkets. “We are lucky to have Sainsbury’s and Tesco!” they insisted. The pair also claimed that French dining is unfashionable and unsexy, comprised of a glut of sub-par restaurants and, more recently, an out-and-out lack of passion. Could they be right?
Quite possibly. On the other table, AA Gill and Jonathan Meades’s argument began to waver. “I admit, France may be stagnating slightly,” Jonathan conceded. Although both he and Adrian raved about the delights of French cooking in years gone by, with AA Gill adding “there is no bit of civilization that is indebted to one country as your dinner is to France,” was it really enough to posit that in the 21st century, French cuisine remains a true force?
The audience seemed to think so, albeit narrowly, with AA Gill and Jonathan winning the debate by a mere 5 points. However, a whopping 20 ‘swing’ points were awarded to Rosie and Janet after 7.4% of the audience changed their vote to agree with them that French food was, indeed, a spent force. But despite this change of heart, it still wasn’t enough to beat the 54% who agreed that, despite facing fierce competition, French cuisine is far from ceding its role as culinary grand dame.
