A perfect spot for a sundowner - the south terrace at Estelle Manor
Unlike its London sibling, Maison Estelle, which is so discreet that it doesn't even show up on Google Maps, Estelle Manor has no such qualms. The opening of this ultra-glamorous hotel has given the Cotswolds a good shake-up. And although it's from the same hotel team that runs Gleneagles along with the Hoxton and Mama Shelter groups, this feels like quite a different beast.
Look and feel
Think vintage glamour - we felt it very much gave off a Kate Moss boho meets billionaire with taste vibes. The folk responsible for that are interior designers Roman and Williams, who are well known in New York for the Ace Hotel and Standard Highline, and Olivia Westrom.
What's here
It's an absolutely massive estate of which the manor house (previously known as Eynsham Hall) is just one part. They've built a very tasteful Stable Block in the grounds which hosts some beautiful suites, along with a glasshouse restaurant and extensive kitchen gardens. On the south terrace, in front of the hotel bar, you'll find a 25-metre swimming pool - and be assured, there's no getting up at the crack of dawn to reserve a sunbed here.
Plus, there's more to come: we took a look at the plans for their Roman-style bathhouse and spa and were very impressed. The space will be extraordinary - mostly built underground with a columned bathing hall and a bar among other enticements.
Isn't it a members' club too?
Yes, if you're lucky enough to have the £3600 annual membership fee to hand (and can secure an already hard-to-get nod from an existing member) that'll not only let you use the extensive gym and work space area but also grant you special access to a suite of lounges inside the manor that are members-only. It'll also let you into the private party spaces in the bathhouse when that opens.
The rooms
Right now there are just over 100 bedrooms (with more to come in the grounds close to the spa). These range from country rooms in the manor through to massive suites overlooking the south terrace and outdoor pool.
We had an Estate Suite which was beautifully furnished, with a roll-top bath tucked behind a painted screen and a shower that without any exaggeration could have fitted an entire football team post-match. We also had a look inside one of the stable suites which are very comfortable indeed with their own garden terrace, separate living room and mahoosive emperor bed.
All the rooms feature vintage furnishings
All have impressive mini bars - ours was stacked with everything from bottles of Grey Goose and The Duppy Share rum, top-tier snackage and gel patches for under the eye for the morning after the night before.
Food and drink
The offering here is still in the process of expanding - we hear there's a Japanese restaurant and more to come. The main part of the hotel features two restaurants - The Brasserie and The Billiards Room. The former is actually a restaurant of two parts; there's a beautiful wood-panelled dining room as well as a conservatory where we had lunch on our first day. Here the menu's packed with traditional favourites - everything from Beef Wellington and Oxford cheddar souffle to truffle agnolotti and a raw bar too.
Both parts of The Brasserie - we dined in the conservatory which was great for lunch.
English Ibérico pork loin with charcuterie sauce (£48)
Foie and Iberico terrine (a daily special)
The Billiards Room is quite a different affair - sort of Studio 54 in the country, if you will. This restaurant features a traditional Chinese menu (there's a dim sum brunch at weekends). Running the show here is Ronald Wang who you may remember from his years being front of house at A Wong.
Dishes start with a range of steamed, baked and fried dim sum before moving on to the signature roast duck (£120) along with various wok-fried dishes and Chinese BBQ.
Native lobster dumpling with Baerii caviar (£28)
The roast duck (£120 for two) comes with pancakes and the usual sticks of cucumber along with organic leek and - unusually but cleverly - grilled pineapple. This also includes a course of the skin served with sugar for dipping and a rice dish with duck too. Our pictures are pretty dreadful because it's a very subtly-lit dining room.
Pre or post-dinner drinks are in the living room. This is maybe the only part of the hotel we felt slightly under-delivered (and frankly we're really nitpicking here). We'd have liked more of a bar scene, but maybe that's behind the doors in the members-only section which we didn't see.
The Living Room/Bar at Estelle Manor
What about breakfast?
You can have breakfast down in the Brasserie, but if you've gone all out of one of Estelle Manor's suites it's an easy thing to bring the whole shebang up to your room. On offer are all the usual favourites - a full English, Eggs Benedict and Royale, and smashed avo on sourdough - along with some particularly good pastries and coffees. We feel we ought to also give a shout out to the bread here which was notably good wherever we were dining.
Breakfast with a view over the swimming pool.
Lunch in the garden
The Glasshouse restaurant is the most recently opened of Estelle Manor's places to eat. It's set out in the gorgeous kitchen gardens which, when we visited, were edged with rows of Alpine strawberries and filled with every kind of green veg you could imagine along with herbs which released their clouds of scent as you walked past.
The view towards the Glasshouse restaurant from the kitchen garden. To the right you can see the Stable Block suites.
This is a more casual, family-friendly affair focused around the wood-fired oven. They go big on large dishes to be served family-style. There are stuffed courgette flowers, grown just centimetres away, peas with ricotta and garden herbs and we also had a fabulous bit of sea bass.
Glazed Italian aubergine with harissa caramel (£20 - including a choice of vegetable or salad side)
Getting there
Estelle Manor is a very easy hotel to get to from London being barely a one-hour train right direct to Hanborough from Paddington. Taxis from the station to the hotel (just a ten-minute car journey away) aren't so easy to find though, so you're better off asking the hotel to arrange to pick you up.
Price
All this luxury doesn't come cheap, nor should it. This is a special hotel and the prices reflect that. Rooms start from £450, including breakfast.
Overall thoughts
In case it wasn't already clear we absolutely adored Estelle Manor. It's really a game-changer for the English country hotel scene, setting a new high bar for others to aim for. From the decor and the service to the amazing food and gorgeous grounds it's really got it all. Very highly recommended.
More about Estelle Manor
Where is it? Eynsham, North Leigh, Park OX29 6PN
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @estellemanor
Hot Dinners stayed as guests of Estelle Manor. Prices correct at time of publication.
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