You've probably heard a lot about San Sebastian and how any self-respecting food lover just has to make the trip there. But with so many restaurants and bars to try, how do you choose? Here are our tips for the best of the best in San Sebastian, with a special shout-out here to Sabor's Nieves Barragan and food Instagrammer @ks_ate_here, both of who gave us amazing lists which helped to power the first of our three weekends here.
Where: 31 de Agosto Kalea
What: Solmomillo (at the bar); Old aged T-Bone steak (in the restaurant)
One of the most popular pintxo places in town (Anthony Bourdain covered it in his show so it's always packed with Americans) the bar and restaurant here are both worth trying. At the bar what you're after is the solomillo - the best bit of steak on bread you're ever likely to try. Continue that meat theme through at the restaurant where the aged T-bone is amazing. But we also loved the scrambled eggs with garlic and shrimps dish too.
Where: Calle Bergara 3
What: Tortilla (but also the crayfish ravioli)
Looks like nothing from the outside, but the pintxos here are first class. You could do the whole queueing thing at Bar Nestor for tortilla, or just come here instead.
Where: Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 12
What: "Kebab” de Costilla de Credo and the Idiazabal risotto
Yes it says kebab, but it's actually going to be the best ribs you ever had. And if you're suffering from one too many beers the night before, then the risotto here, made with the local Idiazabal cheese, is the ultimate comfort food.
Where: San Jeronimo Kalea, 19
What: The seasonal mushrooms with egg
One of the most Instagrammed dishes in San Sebastian, Ganbara's simple plate of cepes and other seasonal mushroom served with an egg yolk is worth braving the crush at the bar here for.
Where: 31 de Agosto Kalea
What: Cheesecake
As you walk into La Vina, you'll see these straight-from-the-oven cheesecakes piled up on the bar. A single portion is easily enough for one, and it's pleasingly gooey on the inside too.
Goiz-Argi
Where: Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 4
What: Prawn brochette
Another spot where you can spot the special because it's what everyone is ordering. Because of course prawns are improved with that amazing topping. The Marijuli (padron pepper, salmon and anchovy) is also recommended.
Bar Narrika
Where: Narrica Kalea, 16
What: Calamari
Narrika might be better known for its huge Autonomo Sandwich - which you can see in all its glory here - but we did love this calamari pintxo. It looks very simple, but that calamari was perfectly cooked.
Where: Calle del General Artetxe, 8
What: Txalupa - mushrooms, langoustines, cheese gratin
Cheesy, prawny, mushroomy gratin on bread. What's not to like?
What: Salt Cod
Where: Iparragirre Kalea, 13
While most of the tapas places are in the old town, it really is worth making the trip across the river to check out some of the places away from the main drag. The main menu at Gerald's Bar looked great if you wanted to sit down, and we adored these salt cod bites (and they do excellent devilled eggs too).
Where: Fermin Calbeton, 10
What: Mushroom crepe
We gradually worked our way through the crowd to the front of the bar to grab one of these - a crepe stuffed with mushrooms. The foie comes recommended here as well.
Cuchara de San Telmo
Where: Santa Korda Kalea, 4
What: Canneloni
This was one of the constantly recommended spots, we discovered. There are two things to look out for on the menu - the amazing canelloni and the suckling pig - available in large and pintxos size depending on how greedy you're feeling. It's usually very busy in the evening but head along for lunch if you fancy something a little more sedate.
Where: Calle María Guerrero, 26
What: Montadito de foie
You'll see that foie gras is a very big thing in the bars of San Sebastian and we know it's not for everyone. But this is one of the most recommended places for foie in the city - and also try the excellent trainera here (prawns on bread).
Atari
Where: 18 Calle Mayor
What: Salt cod pintxos
We also loved the foie dish here, and highly recommended are the tuna pintxos as are the gilda (anchovies). There's lots of outside space here, and there are some very handy steps across the street to perch and people watch.
Where: 31 de Agosto Kalea
What: Bacon "coffee" and sweetbreads
This was actually our first stop in San Sebastian, where we were still getting our bearings on the ordering. But useful hints about the menu can be taken from the illustrations on the wall. Lots were heading for the wagyu sliders here, but the bacon "coffee" with sweetbreads for dipping in it was a true winner for us - one of the best dishes of the trip.
Matalauva
Where: Luises Obreros Plaza, 1
What: Carpaccio of Iberian presa with rocket and parmesan
Across the river again, this tiny bar was recommended by our hotel chef, Martin, as somewhere locals would prefer to go. The menu is tiny and there's plenty of interesting wines to try here too. We perched up at one three stools at the bar, but there's a decent amount of tables and chairs outside.
Where: 31 de Agosto Kalea
What: Leche Frita
Right next door to La Vina. Yes, this translates as "fried milk" but doesn't fried custard sound WAY better? Get one each, you won't want to share.
Where: Garibai Kalea, 2
What: Pedro Ximénez and raisin ice-cream
A San Sebastian institution since 1935, the homemade ice-creams at this heladaria are super and they even deliver to the beach in summer.
Bar Nestor
What: Tortilla/ tomato salad
On our first AND third visits, this was closed so be aware that they do head off on their hold from time to time. In theory, the main thing to get here is the tortilla. They only make two a day and you have to get there early to get your name down on the list. We're assured it is very well worth it, but we missed out on our visit. But if you miss the list too, it's still worth visiting for the very best tomato salad in the entire world. We'd go back there in a flash for that. The steak they serve is amazing too (the main menu is just tomatoes, padron peppers and steak), but absolutely do not miss out on those tomatoes.
More on San Sebastian and Bilbao
Where to stay: Which hotels to book if you're heading to San Sebastian
Getting there: Best way to fly to San Sebastian and where to stay
Test Driving Azurmendi: Trying World's 50 Best restaurant Azurmendi in Bilbao
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