Like Prosecco but want to know (and try) more? Then you'll need to make the pilgrimage to Prosecco country. We popped over to Treviso and the surrounding region and here's what we discovered...
Prosecco country
We'll start with an extremely potted history. While Prosecco can be traced back to the 16th century, it was only as recently as 2008 that the Prosecco DOC official region was created (within that there's an even smaller area within that area called Prosecco DOCG). This means, similar to Champagne, if you're buying Prosecco, it only comes from this specific region of North Italy (Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia). If it doesn't come from there, then it's not Prosecco.
As for the grapes - they were once referred to as Prosecco grapes but are now called Glera. They'll form the majority of any Prosecco wine you're drinking. And that's what you'll growing all around the region..
So, if you're looking to find it in situ...
Treviso, the heart of Prosecco country
Treviso at dusk
If you're looking to get more out of your Prosecco by visiting the region, then your best bet is to base yourself in Treviso. From there, you'll have fairly easy access to the wineries in the region (some much closer than others) as well as having lots of bars and restaurants to choose from. As you might expect, there are a lot of places in Treviso that specialise in Prosecco.
It's also worth noting that Treviso is seen as the birthplace of tiramisu. So if that's one of your favourite desserts, you'll be in heaven here. Most of the restaurants will have their own version of it, but if you really want to go back to the source, Le Beccherie is where it was first served in 1969. The latest incarnation isn't the same as the original restaurant, but you will get the original recipe here, which we'd say uses a little coffee than some versions we've had.
Canals cross through Treviso, meeting at the middle, surrounding a fish market.
Touring the vineyards
The Prosecco region produces around 600 million bottles per year (of which the UK drinks a whopping 120 million bottles). It's all produced in the vineyards and wineries around the region. We visited a select few on the trip - here are some of our favourites.
The main villa at Villa Sandi
Via Erizzo, 113/a, 31035 Crocetta del Montello TV (about 30 mins drive from Treviso)
A large producer in the region, Villa Sandi is one of the best places to visit if you want something a little extra from your visit. The winery is set within a 17th-century villa that looks like something out of a period drama. There are tastings, masterclasses and tours and particularly impressive are all the interlinked underground cellars and tunnels spanning across the main estate.
Down in the vaults at Villa Sandi
Via Tessere, 1, 31049 Valdobbiadene TV, Italy
Villa Sandi also has its own restaurant nearby, Locanda Sandi. So if you're after the full experience, take in a tour and tasting during the day and then head to the restaurant for a Prosecco-fuelled dinner in the evening. There are rooms here too, so it's a very handy place to stay, drink wine and then collapse upstairs.
The impressive paccheri with lobster, saffron and dried tomatoes from Villa Sandi's restaurant.
strada, SP62, 28, 30021 Caorle VE (About an hour's drive from Treviso)
The estate here dates back to 1851 but recently there's been an effort to make the vineyard a hub for art and culture alongside the winery.
Biking around Ca’ Corniani
The most attractive part of this estate is the 10k cycle path (or walking if you wish) built throughout the estate, combined with a huge bike building (which almost looks like an art project itself). From there, you can hire electric bikes for a few hours, and go off whizzing around the vineyards. There's even a small local airport in the middle where you can catch your breath and watch propellor planes take off and land. It is strangely hypnotic.
Our recommendation here would be to hire a bike, tour around the estate at your own pace, and then congregate back in the winery for a quick masterclass.
Prosecco tasting at Ca’ Corniani
Via San Giovanni, 45, 31049 Valdobbiadene TV (About 45 minutes from Treviso)
This winery dates from 1952, and was originally set up to help the area recover from World War II by 129 wine growers. It's now a collection of 600+ wine growers in the region, covering over 1000 hectares. Originally, the Prosecco from this winery was destined for restaurants, but they've since established themselves as a top worldwide brand. Here you'll find a big shop as well as an extensive tasting area upstairs. They hold a number of events throughout the year, so it's well worth checking to see what's on.
Probably our favourite part of the trip. At the Val D'Oca winery, we tasted wine from three vats. First unfiltered and filtered to see how that process works and then trying some of that year's harvest - only in the tanks for two weeks at the time of drinking. If you get the option to do this, definitely give it a try - it's quite enlightening.
Other big Prosecco wineries in the area...
The vineyards at Massotina
There are many more wineries in the area, all worth checking out...
Astoria Wines: Choose between the gorgeous old estate for a vineyard tour or head to the ultra modernist shop and tasting room at this winery.
Ca’ di Rajo: Enjoy guided tastings in a spectacular setting at this vineyard, accompanied by cicchetti. Tables are laid outdoors in amongst the vines which are trained here to resemble what they describe as a "green cathedral".
Borgoluce: At this vineyard, you can stay on-site in their farmhouse B&B or apartments and there are two restaurants for you to enjoy the charcuterie and buffalo mozzarella they produce on the estate along with their Prosecco.
BiancaVigna is run by siblings Elena and Enrico Moschetta. For the fully immersive experience, stay over at their guesthouse and enjoy alfresco lunches and dinners.
Massotina - The Massotina winery itself has been going for 75 years and have an impressive winery on the hilltops at Terre Do Ogliano
La Marca - Started in 1968, this is a consortium of 5000 winegrowers, spread over 10,000 hectares.
A (brief) guide to Prosecco
Prosecco tasting at Villa Sandi
If you've been wondering how to make the most out of your Prosecco purchases, there's one key thing that is worth knowing, and that's the labelling. Get to know that and you'll know how dry you like your Prosecco. Officially, there are no "sweet" Proseccos, only levels of dryness. and it goes like this:
(dryer) Brut Natur - Extra Brut - Brut - Extra dry - Dry - Demi-Sec (sweeter)
The most common Prosecco is Extra Dry, but we personally have a preference to the dryer end - it's well worth hunting down some Extra Brut if you can find it.
Getting there
You can fly direct to Treviso with Ryanair or fly to Venice airport with BA or Easyjet from where there's just a 30-minute transfer to Treviso.
Staying there
On the left, Palazzo Bortolan and on the right, Nuova Filanda
On our visit, we stayed in two places we'd definitely recommend:
Palazzo Bortolan (Treviso) - Right in the centre of Treviso, this is set within a sixteenth-century building, bedecked with wooden eaves in most of the rooms. If you want to feel like you're living in Treviso without going the Airbnb route, this is a very good option.
Nuova Filanda (Valdobbiadene) - If you don't manage to get a room at Locanda Sandi, this is a perfect alternative, only about 5-10 minutes drive from either the restaurant or Villa Sandi itself. A great mix of well appointed, modern rooms in a classic building. A good space to be based in outside of Treviso.
Other options in Treviso include:
Maison Matilda in Treviso is a lovely boutique hotel just a cobblestone stroll away from the city's great restaurants and bars. And it does an excellent breakfast.
Locanda Ponte Dante is, as the name suggests, right on the river. Rooms are austerely minimalist and there's a bar and restaurant with loads of room for alfresco dining.
Il Focolare with its 14 rooms in Treviso offers a handy concierge service to book the city's restaurants and excursions.
Locanda San Tomaso has six bedrooms, all named after local wines. Obviously, you'll be wanting to stay in the Prosecco one.
Hot Dinners travelled to Treviso as guests of Prosecco DOC
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