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The best things we ate and drank in October

Swanky sushi, shellfish platters by the sea, rotisserie chicken and perfect pasta all make our top picks for October. 

 

Il Gattopardo (Mayfair) - Veal Milanese

After enjoying this veal tomahawk Milanese at new Mayfair spot Il Gattopardo we're not sure we can ever go back to the classic thin versions again. But while the veal itself really was delicious, the show was almost stolen by the anchovy and brown butter sauce that came with it.

 

Sushi by Masa at Harrods (Knightsbridge) - Masa Toro Tartare with caviar

This is the dish that turned sushi chef Masayoshi (‘Masa’) Takayama's fortunes around when he opened his restaurant in New York. It showcased his skill but with a bouji flare that Manhattanites were looking for. Now it's being served up at the Masa counter in Harrods' new-look Dining Hall and it's definitely the best thing on the menu.

 

Bébé Bob (Soho) - Landes chicken

This new Bob Bob Ricard spin-off is centred around the chicken so it was particularly important that they got that right. Thankfully the Landes chicken (the slightly more expensive version of two chickens on offer) turned out to be one of the best we've had recently. Full of flavour and with a gloriously reduced chicken jus, this is well worth trying out. 

 

Ugly Butterfly (St Ives) - BBQ scallop with squash and chilli

A dish that chef Adam Handling and his team reckon showcases their seaside restaurant's locavore and sustainable credentials, this featured a BBQ scallop, glazed with red miso, served with a spiced carrot puree, pickled carrot discs and a chilli crumb and finished off with Cornish chilli oil. Not shown here, but just as amazing, was the bread baked in a scallop shell and served with it.

 

Little Palais (St Ives) - Martini

We arrived in St Ives slightly frazzled by a much-delayed train journey and met with driving rain. But the clouds dispersed just in time for us to grab this table overlooking the seafront at the much-raved-about (and deservedly so) Little Palais cocktail bar.  This was hands-down one of our top three martinis of the year, using a vodka created in partnership with local distillers Howl and Loeur.

 

Restaurant Meudon (Falmouth) - Spiced west country duck breast, pulled leg, carrot

Staying in Hotel Meudon near Falmouth we tried out their main restaurant with Head Chef David Waters (previously at Nathan Outlaw) in charge. Main courses were a standout with this extremely tender duck breast a winner. There's also some confit duck leg wrapped in that cabbage leaf. 

 

Herd (Falmouth) - Little beef burger

A trip to Falmouth coincided with their yearly oyster festival and that brought out Newquay burger merchants Herd to cover the street food side of things. This was their basic burger with no frills and as such showcased both the excellent smashed burger and bun. Sometimes a simple, well-created burger does it better than any manner of special extras can achieve.  

 

Hooked on the rocks

Hooked on the Rocks (Falmouth) - Hot Seafood Platter

As professional eaters it's not often we're beaten by a dish, but this huge platter at Falmouth seafront restaurant Hooked on the Rocks nearly finished us off. Arriving in a haze of steam at the table that attracted diners' attention from across the room, it was groaning with mussels, wild prawns, scallops, topped with seaweed pangrattato and came with a side of skinny fries with aioli. Seafood heaven.

 

Chishuru

Chishuru (Fitzrovia) - Fermented rice cake with crab

Part of a trio of starters at Adejoké Bakare's restaurant's new home in Fitzrovia, the cake was generously topped with white crab meat, pumpkin & sorrel purée and a stellar start to a hugely enjoyable dinner here.

 

Manzi's

Manzi's (Soho) - Monkfish Wellington

Ever since the menu for Manzi's was revealed, we've had our eyes on the monkfish wellington. Thankfully it lived up to its reputation and is one of the few alternative wellington dishes that is as good as the beef version.

 

Brunswick House

Brunswick House (Vauxhall) - Raw Dexter Beef, Smoked Bone Marrow & Crispy Shallot 

A dish that's been on the menu here pretty much since day one this is a beef tartare dish that's unlike any you'll have had before. First, they cure the bone marrow with sea salt and horseradish root before cold-smoking it over hay. It's then frozen before being shaved over the dry-aged raw beef. The crispy shallot finishes off this riot of textures and tastes.

 

Murano

Murano (Mayfair) - Provolone & smoked potato agnolotti, lardo di colonnata

If the prospect of a meal at Angela Hartnett's newly reopened and redesigned restaurant doesn't quicken your pulse, then can we really be friends? This heavenly plate of pasta, draped with wafer-thin lardo was truly a dish to die for.

 

See also

The best things we ate and drank in September
Perfectly cooked steak, baked oysters, exemplary pies and a croissant sandwich all make our top picks for September
Read more

 

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