The team on a menu-tasting mission at The Devonshire
He's probably one of the best-known pub landlords in London and when he left The Guinea Grill last summer it's fair to say that lots of folk wondered what would be next for Oisin Rogers. It turns out that he was going into business with Flat Iron founder Charlie Carroll.
The duo have been hard at work on The Devonshire, their first joint pub, which is tucked away behind Piccadilly Circus. They took over what was once Jamie's Italian and have turned it back into what looks like a lovely boozer.
Part of the main pub
The pair had been keeping the details of just who was in charge of the menu close to their chest, but can now reveal that it's ex-Fat Duck and Dinner by Heston executive chef Ashley Palmer-Watts. Ashley has actually been working on the menu since February this year with an aim to revisit British pub classics and lots more besides. In charge of the kitchen on a day-to-day basis will be ex-Mark Hix chef Jamie Guy.
So that menu will have a very classic feel with dishes including:
- Potted shrimp with melba toast
- Pea and ham soup
- Confit tomato tart
- Lamb hotpot
- Beef cheek and Guinness suet pudding pie
A lot of work has gone into perfecting what may seem like simple dishes on the surface -with much tinkering of the recipes over the months. That pie is something they're particularly proud of, so that should be a must-order.
There are also a lot of dishes being cooked on the grill, including lamb cutlets, langoustines, Iberico pork chops, and various beef cuts including a huge beef chop on the bone (up to 1600g). As for desserts, the chocolate mousse and cream (which we've been lucky enough to try) is an absolute standout and one of the best chocolate mousses you're ever likely to have.
This mousse is AMAZING (Photo by Ashley Palmer-Watts)
As for the place itself, it's a three-level affair with the ground floor being the main pub, which will have its own bar snacks, including a bacon sandwich and "sausage on a stick" for £2. As you'd expect from any pub run by Rogers, The Devonshire will aim to serve one of the best pints of Guinness in town and if you're very lucky, you'll be allowed past the main bar into one of three hidden snugs.
Head upstairs (past the huge disco ball) and you'll find the main restaurant on the next two floors.
The top floor at The Devonshire
There's a lot of great attention to detail here, from leather-covered banisters to the cushioned tables themselves and the handwritten menus. And on the first floor, you'll also find an absolutely huge wood-fired oven that dominates proceedings (with a massive pile of wood beside it).
All that and there's also a big rooftop terrace which should be open once the weather starts to improve. On a fair-weather day, this will definitely be the place to be in Soho, watching the crowds below with a Guinness in hand.
Right back down in the basement, you'll find head butcher George Donnelly, who they've managed to poach all the way from Australia, in charge of the pub's on-site ageing chamber. Down there he'll also have dry-aged steaks as well as Ibérico pork farmed by The Ledbury's Brett Graham. For seafood, there are lobsters and langoustines from the Isle of Skye. It's an impressive set up, for sure.
George Donnelly and his meat
Apparently, this pub is a project that Carroll and Rogers have been chewing over for years. "Osh and I have been talking about our dream pub for almost a decade," says Charlie, "somewhere warm, welcoming and accessible to all."
"I can’t wait to be back behind the bar pulling pints again," adds Oisin. "I am delighted, excited and fortunate to be working with Charlie at full tilt on this."
More about The Devonshire
Where is it? 17 Denman Street, London W1D 7HW
When does it open? 3 November 2023
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @devonshiresoho
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