Michael Winner, film director and longstanding restaurant critic for the Sunday Times has died aged 77.
Winner, whose column Winner's Dinners, ran for 19 years, published his last restaurant review for the paper on 2 December 2012.
Chefs, critics and restaurateurs alike took to Twitter to reflect on the irascible critic's passing. "Such sad news. The most charismatic food critic ever. Loved him dearly." said Gordon Ramsay. "He could be absurd and made some lousy films. But he could also be a rather lovely man. Winner made life more interesting," tweeted Jay Rayner.
"He was an Ivy regular," said former Ivy executive Chef Alan Bird. "Often complimentary as he was critical. Will never forget he accused us of using carton OJ." While Dave Strauss from Goodman London probably summed up a lot of restaurant people's opinion when he tweeted: "Gave us a shite review but still very sad to hear about Michael Winner."
In Winner's last column, he related how his wife had urged him to give up the post: "Last week Geraldine said: “What’s the point of being a restaurant critic if you’re so sick you can’t eat? It’s time you gave up that column.” And I said: “Darling, you’re absolutely right.” So this is it: goodbye. I’ve been writing this column for nearly 20 years and I don’t want a carriage clock or a gold watch. I am trying to get rid of stuff, not collect it."
Right up to the end, his reviews could be harsh. On Garnier last year he wrote: "Garnier is a prime example of hype over reality. On the whole, most of the food is, well, it’s there." He wasn't much impressed with the water at the new Four Seasons either: "The still mineral water has the same name as the hotel’s restaurant, Amaranto. It tasted stale, as if it had come from a graveyard and six people had died, their bodily fluids joining the water. I think I tasted a touch of my Uncle Harry in it. He left us 10 years ago."
While of Mayfair's Novikov he declared; "The food at Novikov is fantastic. Service first rate. Lunchtime atmosphere nil. Prices beyond belief."
That said, there were places he enjoyed. Bill Granger's Westbourne Grove spot obviously pleased him: "[Bill] is king of what is called the laid-back dining concept. That means you eat and lie down at the same time. This is extremely restful. Personally it suits me fine."
And of Langan's Bistro in Devonshire Street he wrote: "This was not a meal that merited Michelin stars or other meaningless approval. It was simply very good. It had helped to keep me alive and did so again. What more could anyone ask for?"
