Back in the summer of 2011, pop-ups were properly in their heyday. From the candle-lit supper club to the high-profile chef affair, there was anything but a shortage of quirky and exciting venues. But one year on, the novelty’s wearing ever-so-slightly thin, which means that in order to make an impression the food really has to take the spotlight - something that the West End’s newest pop-up, Asia de Cuba, manages comfortably with its ceviche.
Hot Dinners made its way down to St Martin’s Lane for the launch on a muggy summer’s evening, and found there’s little better than a sharp, citrusy burst of ceviche to cut through the humidity. Well, perhaps a punchy mini-mojito to sip on while you're waiting.
At The Front Room, an offshoot of Asia de Cuba, the restaurant at five-star hotel St Martin’s Lane London’s main restaurant - the focus is firmly on the fish, with a short menu offering five varieties of ceviche to choose from, demonstrating how it’s often better to do one thing and do it really well.
Among the treats we sampled, we particularly liked the sharp flavours of the Grouper with Amarillo and Seville Orange (£6), while another personal favourite was the unusual but delicious Curry Kingfish with Passionfruit (£6). Everything was seriously refreshing, particularly the ‘helato’ - salted avocado ice-cream served with the salmon ceviche. And if you feel at risk of having your palate too cleansed, you could always finish up with a Mexican doughnut with butterscotch sauce (£4).
All dishes are made up to order, taking a little over five minutes, so while you wait take advantage of the very reasonably priced mojitos (£4) and have a quick respite from the summer heat leaning against one of the standing tables, while the chefs whip up your ceviche in front of you, perfect to take away on a stroll through the West End.
Ceviche by Asia de Cuba, The Front Room, St Martins Lane, London WC2N 4HX runs from 4-25 July, 11.30am-7.30pm.
