The Modern Pantry
47-48 St John’s Square, Clerkenwell, London EC1V 4JJ
Latest critic review: January 15, 2012
Critics' score: 7 out of 10

Anna Hansen's journey to the Modern Pantry took in two Peter Gordon restaurants - The Sugar Club and The Providores, both known for their inventive fusion cuisine. So it's no surprise that the menu here is peppered with unusual food pairings, not to mention plenty of ingredients you'll probably need the waiter to illuminate you on.

Reviews and map

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Lisa Markwell Independent
Reviewed on January 15, 2012
"I know I'll come back to The Modern Pantry – Hansen (not in the kitchen on our visit) is a real talent – but tonight feels an ill-fated date." READ REVIEW

Jay Rayner Observer
Reviewed on July 10, 2011
"None of this is everyday food. It is too restless for that, too knowing. But in a town like London, which is nothing like the country in which it sits, it makes a twisted kind of sense." READ REVIEW
Estimated score

Matthew Norman Guardian
Reviewed on January 03, 2009
"…we left entranced by Hansen's fusion of the pan-global inventiveness that is now so deliciously nostalgic and the old-fashioned technical excellence that's become so achingly trendy." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 9
Marina O'Loughlin Metro
Reviewed on October 28, 2008
"Hansen herself has denied that what she's doing here is fusion, claiming it's merely modern cooking for her Modern Pantry. Strange, then, that it all seems so last century." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 6
AA Gill Sunday Times
Reviewed on October 19, 2008
"It’s as forgettable as hundreds and hundreds of other restaurants with no sense of occasion, pleasure, anticipation or pride. Sort of culinary Rohypnol." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 4
Giles Coren Times
Reviewed on September 27, 2008
"In a world where Lancashire hotpot and pease pudding occupy the cutting edge, such dishes as “truffled artichoke, tarragon and parmesan crostini”, “krupuk quail eggs, lime and chilli dipping sauce”, and “confit duck leg, roast sweet potato, beetroot, black bean, liquorice and ginger salsa” must be treated as old favourites." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 7.5
Terry Durack Independent
Reviewed on September 28, 2008
"The lack of faff means some dishes can look thrown on the plate, and it is hilarious how wildly exotic can so easily mean brown sauce, yet with its freshness, lightness and casual, drop-in attitude, the Modern Pantry is just that – modern." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 7
Jasper Gerard Telegraph
Reviewed on September 19, 2008
"I really like this place and hope it survives. But after this week's eruption, feeding pumpkin seeds to restaurant critics seems a bit end-of-civilisation stuff." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 8
Larushka Ivan-Zadeh This is London
Reviewed on September 18, 2008
"If I could eat nothing else but chocolate liquorice mousse with brittle choccie wafer, whipped cream and tamarillo (£6.50) for the rest of my days, I'd die a happy old woman." READ REVIEW
Estimated score
Critic's score: 8
Tracey MacLeod Independent
Reviewed by September 13, 2008
"Too often these days, a restaurant meal tends to be interrupted by elaborate introductions from waiters who insist on talking you through every ingredient on your plate. At the Modern Pantry, it's the food itself that stops the conversation..." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 7
Guy Dimond TIme Out
Reviewed on August 28, 2008
"For vibe and novelty factor, this is most exciting place to eat in Clerkenwell right now, and it’s already filled with the area’s many self-consciously creative types." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 6.5
Fay Maschler Evening Standard
Reviewed on August 20, 2008
"You know that fusion works when you eat something like chorizo, date and feta fritters served with a yoghurt dip, its innate piquancy championed by tamarind, and you think why has this not been done before?" READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 8
Dos Hermanos Dos Hermanos
Reviewed on August 12, 2008
"That Steak showed that maybe the kitchen was beginning to get the hang of things, it also showed that there are the seeds of some decent cooking here." READ REVIEW
Estimated score
Critic's score: 6

More information

Address47-48 St John’s Square, Clerkenwell, London EC1V 4JJ
Telephone number 0207 553 9210
Opening timesCafé times:
Monday to Friday: 8am – 11am & 12pm – 10.30pm (10:00pm Monday)
Saturday: 9am – 4pm & 6pm – 10.30pm; Sunday: 10am – 4pm & 6pm – 10pm

Restaurant times
Tuesday to Friday: 12pm-3pm & 6pm-10:30pm
Saturday: 11am – 4pm & 6pm – 10:30pm; Sunday: 11am – 4pm
Outside seating (weather permitting)

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