The Gilbert Scott

Latest critic review: July 24, 2011
Critics' score: 6.5 out of 10

Marcus Wareing and his protege Chantelle Nicholson have set up a lavish bar and restaurant in the St Pancras Hotel. The classic architecture has been enhanced by David Collins designs and there's a menu that focuses on the best of British, reinvented. Seats up to 120, with a private room and kitchen table available.

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Hot Dinners has had a test drive of this restaurant. Find out what we thought.

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Zoe Williams Telegraph
Reviewed on July 24, 2011
"None of it was horrid, and I don't think the value was bad, either. But this menu has taken the trend for rediscovering English classics, and rendered it in quite a stodgy, unimaginative way." READ REVIEW

Richard Vines Bloomberg
Reviewed on July 18, 2011
"While the Gilbert Scott isn’t an instant classic, it certainly isn’t bad. It’s a decent restaurant that can become better." READ REVIEW

Lucie Greene City AM
Reviewed on July 05, 2011
"In look and setting terms it does (well) with bells on (it’s abundantly clear why Collins is being tapped to design just about every new bar and hotel these days.) It’s just a shame the food doesn’t quite yet have the same sparkle." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 6.5
Matthew Norman Telegraph
Reviewed on June 21, 2011
"As with so many hotel restaurants, this feels less like a labour of love than a project designed to maximise the profitability of a disused space." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 6
Lisa Markwell Independent
Reviewed on June 19, 2011
"If I travelled regularly via the nearby Eurostar I might pop back from time to time (there's a dearth of choices in unlovely King's Cross), but I can't quite love it. And if that fails me the foodie litmus test, so be it." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 7
Marina O'Loughlin Metro
Reviewed on June 08, 2011
"I can’t imagine ever being, or wanting to be, a regular here: too big; too imposing; too busy trying to be an event." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 4
Hermano Primero Dos Hermanos
Reviewed on May 31, 2011
"So great room and good service, both of which are the result of no little effort I assume. Shame then, that things went downhill when it came to the food." READ REVIEW
Estimated score
Critic's score: 6
AA Gill Sunday Times
Reviewed on June 05, 2011
"It’s an exercise in sentimental hindsight. To remake the past, either as a carpet or a pie, is not to relive its glory, it’s to deny the present its moment." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 4
Tracey MacLeod Independent
Reviewed on May 21, 2011
"Happily, the intellectual promise of the menu is followed through on the plate. The dishes we tried may not have looked particularly pretty, but they were prepared with the finesse you'd expect from a team with its roots in fine dining." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 9.5
John Lanchester Guardian
Reviewed by May 21, 2011
"The menu is a thing of beauty: it is full-on retro English. It draws heavily on the food writers of previous centuries – John Nott, Isabella Beeton – and makes a statement about the strength of this grievously underexploited culinary heritage." READ REVIEW
Estimated score
Critic's score: 9
Guy Dimond Time Out
Reviewed on May 12, 2011
"It is the building that had the wow factor, not the meal." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 6
Fay Maschler Evening Standard
Reviewed on May 12, 2011
"The problem with an overarching idea more elaborate than something good to eat is that the cutesy monikers make the items all the more disappointing when they turn out ordinary." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 4
Stephen Farmer View London
Reviewed on May 05, 2011
"It certainly looks impressive, but it’s the delicious British menu that would make any man with Victorian sensibilities very proud indeed." READ REVIEW
Critic's score: 10

More information

Telephone numberAverage price: Expensive
trainKing's CrossKing's Cross
Opening timesBar and restaurant: Open from 12.00pm daily
  • Private Hire available
  • Bar area
  • Chef's table

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