Test Drives

What do I need to know about Hubbard & Bell?hubbard-main

It's the latest opening for Soho House restaurant and is an all day cafe/bar/restaurant serving up American-style food.

Where is it?

In the Hoxton Holborn hotel - at the back of the lobby.

Where should I meet friends for a drink first?

The bar here's a cracking place to start your evening, but if you're after something else, we can recommend Scarfe's Bar at the nearby Rosewood or maybe the Holborn Whippet serving up craft beer on nearby Sicilian Avenue.

And where should I sit?

There are plenty of long tables if you want to come here with a group of friends, and there's room for counter dining up at the pass, but we liked our banquette at the far end of the room just fine for people watching.

What's the food like?

We were here for their opening party, so we didn't roam around their menu at will. What we did have, that both we and Nigella also rated (name drop clang) was their oxtail on toast with smoked marrow (£8). Nigella tweeted it was "the best thing on any menu right now" and while we're not sure we'd go that far, it is comfort food to an awesome degree.

We also had a brilliant 10oz 60 day aged sirloin steak (£19), grilled to perfection and served up simply with watercress, bernaise and a beefy, mushroom gravy. In a very first world problem way our lobster wasn't that great, but on the upside the charred sprouts with sour cherry and bacon would convert most sprout-haters.

From a short selection of dessert we tried a pretty light key lime pie and a pleasingly hefty chocolate tart served up with orange and Amaretto Chantilly cream (both £7).

And drink?

Our Stimson Chardonnay from Washington (£8 for 175ml) was soft with just a hint of oak. There seems to be only wines by the glass available on the list we've seen ranging from a crackingly good value Vermentino at £5.50 to £11 for a glass of Hawk Crest Cabernet Sauvignon.

Overall thoughts:

There's nothing like this place midtown, so we reckon that between this and the Chicken Shop downstairs, the Hoxton Holborn will do very nicely thank you very much with this offering. Service was really very good for somewhere that had barely opened its doors and we also liked the look of the cafe part at the front which will be serving up coffee, fresh juices and doughnuts. All in all a boost for Holborn.

Hubbard & Bell is at 99-206 High Holborn, London WC1V 7BD

Hot Dinners ate as guests of Hubbard & Bell. Prices were correct at the time of writing.

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